2 Stage build?

[Glennster]

I want torque & HP but can't afford it, soooooo...................Here's my plan.
 I talked to George @ Speed O Motive, great guy. I'm thinking of doing this build in 2 stages.
1. add Aluminum Heads, a cam, elect. ignition and some headers to my 70  318. Enjoy that for a year or two. When money is available, go to stage 2.
2. get a 360 short block, stroked to 408 and put the stage 1 goodies on it.
George says they can re-port the heads for the 408 when I make the switch.

 My conversations with Speed O Motive leads me to believe that these are good people to work with, but I'm a salesmen,  AKA, the biggest suckers in the world. Nobody is an easier sale than a salesman. we are suckers!!!

Do you guys know anything about Speed O Motive?
How about my 2 stage plan?

I appreciate your opinions!

[71chally416]

Only problem with that is what if you lose a 40 YO rod bolt (the weak link in any old stock motor) and kick a rod and piston into one of the heads?

A better plan would be to save your money and look for someone selling a crate or rebuilt motor cheap. Deals are everywhere if you look cause people are hurting for $$$.
Having the money, like say $1,500/$2,000 in your hand is the key. 

[LAA66]

 Have you considered doing the 360/408 bottom end first then adding the other pieces as you go?  I don't know the cost difference or compatibility issues but Starting with a good foundation seems logical.

[FJ5_440]

 
I would do it the other way around and get a good stout short block with iron heads in the car and add the alloy heads and other stuff as you can afford it.  That way you have the biggest power gain right away and can bolt on the other goodies as weekend projects as time and money become available.  You might decide that a good motor combo with stock type heads and fewer performance pieces actually meets your needs.

[Chryco Psycho]

I agree , do the bottom end first , then do the top end , I also do not agree with the Eddy heads, if you build enough compression for the alum head it will be too high fo rthe iron heads or the other way the compression will be too low if you build for Iron & swap to alum , I also do not believe Eddy heads offer significantly HP increase over a good ported Iron 308 for example head

[HP2]

Only problem with that is what if you lose a 40 YO rod bolt (the weak link in any old stock motor) and kick a rod and piston into one of the heads?

A potential problem, yes, unfortunate, yes, but fixable. Aluminum is easy to weld up and re-machine if something were to happen. Crack an iron head and you have an instant door stop.

Actually, I'd suggest something different than what your thinking. To get the current 318 up in power, you need to boost compression and pump more air. Easiest way to do that is to go with a set of ported closed chamber iron heads, like magnums with a smaller rv type cam with short duration to maximize the squeeze. Compression is power and the more you have, the more power you make. The extra compression will make more power on the small inch 318 than the nice, aluminum heads and cam will.

Then if you want to go build a premium inch, maximum power, aluminum head combo, spend away.

Speed o motive has been around a while, but I've never heard anything good or bad about them, so can't help you there. I might be more inclined to use Hughes, Muscle Motors, or Hensley first.   

[Glennster]

The reason I was going to go with the heads first is that my current 318 heads need a valve job pretty bad. I get a bunch of blue smoke when I start it, and there's a skip or miss that appears to be a burned / bad valve hanging up.
 
 I was going with the Speed O Motive Aluminum heads. They would port them to work good on the 318, then for $150, they would re-port them to work properly on the 408.

 The other reason for doing this backwards is that I would go to a 727 Tranny and an 8 3/4 rear end when I go to the 408.

 I was going this route because it would clean up the head problem and get me a fairly cheap, small bump in performance.....

I just need more CASH!

[71chally416]

I'd never put a new set of heads or even do a valve job on a 40 YO short block. It'll smoke worse then before if you do.

[73Chally]

As much as you want to fix the problem you have right now, I think you would be best off waiting until you can build the 406 before you do anything with new heads.  The entire engine works as a system, and the best way to get optimal performance out of any one part is to assemble them together.  Even the extra $150 to re-grind the heads for the 306 is extra money, never mind the time/money to swap them onto the 318.

[moper]

I have very limited experience with Spee O motive. But the two cases thigns did not go well. This was two years ago. As far as design... If he said run Edelbrocks, ported, on a whipped 318, you're a sucker. If your heads need work, get them fixed or find a set in better shape and run them until you can afford to do one right. RPMs are great heads. Too much for a stock 318 in brand new form, nevermind one that's got miles on it. And as 71 noted... good heads, on a poor shortblock, lead to worse oil use problems. Why not find a nice running 360 and drop it in as is? It's going to be 1/2 the cost of a set of RPMs.