Author Topic: Drip rail question  (Read 4403 times)

OxfordMotorSports

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Re: Drip rail question
« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2010 - 11:07:19 PM »
Yeah, the plan it do what I did to my Pro Street 66 Mustang.  Cut away all sheet metal that can't be saved, remove all rust, inside and out and replace all removed sheet metal.  I hate to half-ass anything.
JSM

Good to hear. When you get started put it up on the resto thread if you can.

Todd

OMS

NYC




Offline JigSawMan

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Re: Drip rail question
« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2010 - 11:19:13 PM »
I will.  I just pulled the stainless off of the drip rails today and cleaned away all of this clear silicone that someone had spread all over the window edges so I could have a closer look.  It's pretty bad, but not unlike any of the other roof jobs I have seen here so far.  So I am happier than I was before initially talking to you all.
JSM

OxfordMotorSports

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Re: Drip rail question
« Reply #17 on: May 24, 2010 - 10:00:21 AM »
 :popcorn:

Todd

OMS

NYC

Offline DMZ73

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    • http://www.pbase.com/dmz73/
Re: Drip rail question
« Reply #18 on: May 26, 2010 - 10:04:11 PM »
You can also purchase a shrinker/stretcher from Harbor Freight or Eastwood, and start making some of the main shaped sections. (90 degree bends, etc. Then Go back and template out the flat stuff, and weld it together. Use shop presses with Oak/Maple to help form the shapes that you need for structure.

I spend a lot of time hammering everything into shape from cutoffs of shapes that are relatively  close, then surface finish them.
Structure is slightly different- It doesnt have to be pretty, it just has to be fairly accurate.

Dan
One E body saved, 7 years and counting.