Which carb do I rebuild?

[hooD]

I'd be tempted to build the original 1st... I assume your car still runs with the one on there now..
 There are only a couple of reasons gas would leak out the shaft, one the floats are not closing the needle valves or the needle valves are bad, the other the bottom jet sumps are leaking. 
 I see on you OE carb. the secondary air valve is hanging open, so the spring needs adjusting or something has it in a bind.

As I told Phil in the above post...the secondary air valve spring is MIA (missing in action) on my factory TQ.  It's no wonder the carb always bogged down when the secondaries tried to open.  That is why I replaced it in 1974.  Where can I get that spring from?

[Super Blue 72]

Maybe this guy can get you one?  He has a great page on the TQ.

http://www.thermoquads.com/

Another useful site for the TQ:

http://www.carburetor.ca/Tech/Carter/tqguide-Vaanth.html

[Bullitt-]

Larry, I should have an extra spring , give me a couple of days to locate.. Go ahead & PM your address.
   Anything else missing? 

[hooD]

Larry, I should have an extra spring , give me a couple of days to locate.. Go ahead & PM your address.
   Anything else missing?

   Spring received!  Thanks Bullitt 

[Super Blue 72]

 

[hooD]

Air valve spring installed.  Secondary air door with tension pictured below.  Thanks again Bullitt 

[Bullitt-]

Glad I could be there for ya     Got a rebuild kit yet? 

[hooD]

Glad I could be there for ya     Got a rebuild kit yet?

Yep, I have the rebuild kit.  I had to take the top half off the carb and remove the float on the passenger side to put the spring in.  While looking at this work of art, I decided that I would be able to do the rebuild myself. 

With the pictures I will be taking for reference, and along with the service manual plus the carb on my car, I shouldn't have too much of a problem if I get stuck on something.  And then there's always this place to get the best answers from. 

 

[Bullitt-]

A few things to look out for that have given me problems on past rebuilds.

   Be careful how you bend the floats.  I've found that two pair of needle-nose pliers work well otherwise you run the risk of bending the tang that rides on the needle valve.
   Before and after check that the floats hang down the same when the top is upright, if not a tang is bent.   This is a different issue from the float height adjustment which is made with the top inverted but has a direct effect on how the float functions.
   There are 2- small O ring-like seals about the diameter of a pencil that go at the bottom of the top plate. Be sure to remove the old ones as they may stick in the body, both being black you may not see.
   The tiny hose that runs from the accelerator pump to the squirter  is easily kinked.
   Be sure to remove the accelerator pump squirter & the little brass valve under neath it & clean very well..... Every time I let a T/Q dry out this area is a problem... You think the pump is bad but the problem is this valve is stuck closed. 
   Getting the metering rods in without them falling off is problematic.  When your ready for final assembly from the bottom hook the rods on the, whatch-call-it, tree then press the tree down on both sides & hold there while you put the top on. With just a little figiting of the tree the rods will find their way home.
   With the carb assembled make sure the butterflies close completely. Turn the idle screw until it contacts the stop, then adjust the fast idle screw per the instructions.
   Loosely bolt the carb to the intake and test the operation of the butterflies. See that they fully open & close with no bind. Tighten & test again.
   After running through a heat cycle tighten all the top plate screws & base to intake bots again, they will be loose.   
   
   I'll add to if anything else comes to mind.

Tuning tips
http://www.thermoquads.com/page204.html