SB Windage Tray

[dodge freak 2]

Should I go ahead and get one? Seems it would help keep the oil away from the sides of the oil pan, MP makes a kit for like $86. I will be using an older MP stock oil pan.

What about replacing the rear main seal, motor was rebuilt 8 years ago, around 35,000 miles. Can not tell if its leaking cause the oil pan rubber seal in back is bad--from day one...different shop people put the pan on than assemble the crank and bearings. Those were done right since it lived all this time.

[Moparal]

Always helps to put the tray on, but it takes 4 special main bolts, which should come with the kit.  I would change the rear seal as long as your down. Unless you are absolutely sure it is not leaking

[challengerx]

Hi, I have a brand new milodan windage tray for sale, it was taken out of the package but not used. I can send you a pic and part number if interested. $40 plus shipping. Thanks I think its # mil-32230 in summit .

[dodge freak 2]

Thanks but those use studs to install and I going to be doing the job in the car with jack stands and a floor jack lifting the motor up. Seems the MP kit has bolts with threaded heads for the screws to hold the tray in. Think it be easier to install those bolts than studs since I have no stud wench and jamming two nuts together seems more work which I hardly need.

My pan is leaking bad--a drip a second on the drivers side while the motor is running, pretty sure nothing is crack-seems to be coming from the pan gasket. Those daily 6500 rpm spins may have taken its toll on the pan gasket. I did tighten the pan up, was no help...as for cleaning and slapping RTV on the side its a maybe but I should just change it and be done with it.   

[femtnmax]

The problem with sheet metal windage trays is the oil is thrown off the rods at a good velocity, then that oil is going to splash off the sheet metal windage tray...right back onto the rotating crank/rod assembly.   Some folks wonder if this is really the answer to the problem of oil control.  I have to agree with them (I don't like the splash problem).
Some suggest a screen rather than a sheet metal windage tray.  Some racers suggest moving the oil further away from the rotating crank/rods by using a deeper oil pan, for example a 7 quart pan, but only run 5 or 6 quarts.  Then the oil level in the pan is further from the rotating assy.

[Chryco Psycho]

a crank scraper works well 

[HP2]

Crank scraper is the best solution.

However, I have seen testing that even the lowly sheet metal tray provides windage benefits starting as low as 3000 rpm. Granted they aren't huge, but they start there. Depending on the engine combo, you may get 5-15 extra horses at 6000 rpm.

On windage screens you have to make sure the angle of the pressed holes are right so it deflects the oil down instead of back up. Worst case it is as good as sheet metal.

[Aracer]

I have the Milodon 7 qt. pan and pick up with built in front and rear sheet metal shelves, so along with the side flairs creates a well. I left the MP windage tray off when I replaced the 340- LA pump with a hi-volume/pressure oil pump recently. I think the tray is too close at the rear and would block oil return, and not needed for my oil pan/pump.