Mastercylinder bleeding

[ShelbyDogg]

Try this;  bend a piece of brake line and put some ends on it so you can connect the front master cylinder hole to the rear hole. Now try to push the piston. You should get solid pressure on both master cylinders. If that works, put it back on the car and lets move down your lines.   Take a picture of your distribution block for me with the lines from the MC.

[Belgium Cuda]

Here it is, Charger R/T -68 with power disc from factory. I removed the retainer between booster and mc but
no difference. Have now tried longest and shortest possible rod without any difference in pedalpressure.

Per

[ShelbyDogg]

That all looks good.

There is an adjustable rod between the booster and the MC piston. Shorten it all the way (for now) then try the pedal. If the master cylinder pistons aren't going all the way back, the holes don't allow more fluid in for the next pump.

[Belgium Cuda]

OK, will do. Connected front and rear port and piston isn't moveable anymoore. Should mean that
the mc is alright.

Per

[Belgium Cuda]

Todays excersise learned me that the rod adjusted to minimum still press the mc piston in 1/4".
Loosend the mc so the piston could have full strokes but no difference. Could I have gotten air
in the mc while the rod was wrongly adjusted?

Per

[ShelbyDogg]

Leave your master cylinder loose for now so that the piston isn't depressed at all when you are not pressing the pedal. 

When your lines are open below does the fluid flow out freely? Start cracking some lines open a fluid should flow out, bubbles or no bubbles.

 You do know that you will not have a hard pedal till your calipers are all the way against the rotors and the rear brakes are ajusted till they slightly drag, right?

[IMNCARN82]

put the lid on the mc when you bleed. Every time you pump the brakes. It takes a LOT of pumping to get the fluid in there sometimes. I was shocked at how much it took.My bro was laughing at me pumping away     We did it many,many,many,many,many,many times.  Try and put a small hose on the bleeder and suck on it first.Works great! Just don't swallow it! Good luck dude

[Belgium Cuda]

Bought myself a aircompressordriven vacuumpump and that one got the air out. Pedal feels
like it should now. Also found a few very small leaks that only showed drips of oil after a couple of hours.

So for the rodproblem, is some "preload" on the mc piston OK or does it have to be fully returned?

Secondly, when I spinn the front whell and press the brakepedal it doesn't stop spinning. Does the pads
needs some breaking in and/or do I need the powerassist?

Per

[ShelbyDogg]

So for the rodproblem, is some "preload" on the mc piston OK or does it have to be fully returned?

Secondly, when I spinn the front whell and press the brakepedal it doesn't stop spinning. Does the pads
needs some breaking in and/or do I need the powerassist?

When I adjust mine I adjusted the rod till it barely touches the MC cup after the 4 nuts are tight. If yours starts to press in when shortened all the way, something is too long.

Pump your brakes till the rotor stops turning, then release.  The next time you push the pedal, it should stop right away.