Stereo Help Suggestions??

[djwhog]

OK looking to put in a decent sound system, no cutting butcher jobs etc.


I am looking at a McIntosh MX406 AM/FM CD PLAYER I think it is called single DIN but not sure? It is 2" x 7" in size, will these work or not?

What are others using thanks   
Dave

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Any single DIN radio should work. Just make sure they come with some kind of metal sleeve to fit in the opening. You insert this sleeve, then the new radio slides in and locks to it.

I bought my radio from Crutchfield.com so they supplied what I needed.

Maybe others have done different things to get by?   

As a side note, if you have headers and other than stock mufflers, you will need to install an aftermarket amp to hear the music above the exhaust.   

[djwhog]

Thanks Bud! 

No ... nope no headers for me, stock dual type not too loud, and yes I still need to add a trunk amp as well.

 

[djwhog]

OK on this same subject are the rear deck speakers that can be mounted from the trunk side 6x9's?

I am looking at these speakers and for the money seem very decent without going to high end componet speakers and modding the car i want a stock look.

Pionner Ts-d902p
Woofer Cone Material:  Dual-Layer IMX Aramid/Basalt Fiber Composite Cone
Surround:  Butyl Rubber for Smoother Response
Voice Coil Bobbin:  Glass-Imide
Voice Coil Wire:  OFC Copper
Damper:  Conex
Tweeter:  1-1/8" Soft Dome with Magnetic Fluid and Neodymium Magnet
Rear Chamber Tweeter Design:  Large Rear Chamber Design for Lower Crossover Frequency
Basket Design:  Full Depth Basket for Rich Bass Response
Wave Guides:  Wave Guides For Dispersion Control
Built-in Passive Crossover:  -12dB/Oct. LPF/HPF, with Acrylic Cover
Speaker Grille:  Included
Specifications:

Watts MAX. Music Power:  360 Watts
Watts Nominal Power Handling:  80 Watts
Frequency Response:  28 Hz to 30 kHz
Sensitivity (1W/1m):  90 dB
Ohm Rating:  4
Mounting Depth:  3-1/2" (89 mm)
Cut-out Dimensions:  8-5/8 x 6 (220 mm x 151 mm)

[Bullitt-]

  Any single DIN should work except motorized, as long as you bring it in from the bottom no cutting is necessary.
  Here was my approach http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=21379.0

[DixieDuo]

LOVE that install!!! The head unit looks very clean in the dash and your kick panels are awesome. When I go to do mine I will be picking your brain if that is ok. Yours look factory and that will be the look I am going for.

[djwhog]

Well here is what I have and I also obtained some nice very small dome tweeters and will build my own crossovers 12db linkwitz Riley, I found some tiny swivel mounts to go under the dash that should look clean, no cutting etc. Here is a pic of the amp and the head unit. I found a very good deal on used McIntosh parts, new would have been over 3k for the head unit and amp + speakers etc.

Now the next trick will be to fab something to mount this amp in the trunk. I also will need long interconnect cables to run from the head unit to the amp, and run power to the trunk as well, I think if i remove the drivers sill plate and maybe the drivers seat and back seat I should be able to cleanly run the wires to the trunk, and then run speaker wires from the amp in the trunk to the tweeters up front as well. 

[DixieDuo]

High dollar equipment is going to sound good when finished. There are a few companies that I would use for all the wires and RCA's. Monster Power makes good quality stuff, Memphis Car Audio also has great wire kits. My only questions are what brand of components are you using with such a high end amp? Also being so high end with head unit and amp are you really going to run those Pioneers? You're going to lose the sound quality the amp has by trying to run them. Seeing what amp and head unit you have it doesn't seem like you're limited on a audio budget. Upgrade from Pioneer.

[djwhog]

Well those are going to be fillers only and I have seperates from Focal going into the front and rear, Focal Polyglass 690CVX 6x9" Coaxial Speakers. I built my own crossovers for the drivers and the pioneers are a temp in the 6x9 holes, but I feel the same as you posted, I will at some point put these Pioneers in my 64 Dart. They are for testing and what I had... Even though power with this amp is not an issue I am not sure I want some monster sized sub woofer, just clean tight bass, I may do a small dual 175mm drivers in a cabinet for tight fast bass too at some point, but I am not going to make ony holes in the car etc.

My biggest delima is how I am going to mount this sub, I am thinking I will need to get some 1"x3", span the rear braces going across the back seat and then mount the amp to the wood. This will insulate it and give it a firm support, this thing weighs 26lbs.

thanks for the feedback.

The pioneers for what they are sound OK, but are not in the same class agreed... take care:)

PS thanks too for the suggestions, I will look into them, I am well aware of Moster and a few others too, but did not know about the other Memphis gear, again thank you much!

[DixieDuo]

You are more than welcome. If you are wanting tight bass and a small size box look into the Memphis S-class subs. They are DVC and come in 10's and 12's. The 12's can have real tight bass with ample umph inside a 1.6cf box vented to 45hz. A friend of mine had them in his Camry and if you didn't know they were 12's you would think they were massive 15's. What I loved about them is they are such a great sounding sub in such a tiny space.
 Now if you want to get fancy get a set of Kicker L7 DVC 12's and make a fiberglass enclosure using the spare tire well.
 By any means please take photos and how did you make the crossovers?