Floor patch recommendation

[JonS]

I'm getting ready to order metal to redo my floors which it seems everyone ends up doing on these cars.  The transmission tunnel area is good but everything else is pretty thin or gone. 

I've had recommendations to do 2 - 3/4 length pans on either side of the tunnel instead of the whole floor pan over concerns that after removing the floor there is a chance you can twist up the body because of some of the rigidity that you lose.  Any truth to this or am I getting advice from people that are paranoid?

If I did the full pan then at least I could pretty much match the locations of the factory welds.

I appreciate the input.

Jon

[CudaNut]

If the rest is gone or thin the rigidity is gone anyway. If you can level the car and support it properly (multiple points) the full pan is the best way. I've replaced a couple of these and in my opinion the full pan would be easier than trying to splice the floor with the two 3/4 pans. Post a pic and it would help us evaluate the situation.

[DetMatt1]

I would definitely go with the full pan as well, you will be much happier with the end result. Is the rest of the car solid, rockers, frame rails etc. and how do your doors fit, as far as gaps?. If all of this is good, than I'm sure you will have no worries. Pics would help.

[JonS]

Here are a few pics for you...

Basically, the low areas are trash, but anything that isn't a low area is surprisingly good.  The back seat is pretty good except on the passenger side where your butt goes.

To continue with more questions... I've looked at Goodmark, AMD, and now Dynacorn for metal.  A local restorer is telling me that Dynacorn metal is better than AMD for quality.  I'm not sure if anyone here has experience with it or not.  I'm always weary of what someone sells when they don't sell anything other than what they're trying to sell you.

[72cudamaan]

Careful there,  your pics show 4 different pans needed to fix what damage you have.  The front floor pan does not include the two rear footwell pans, and the area where your "butt" sits is actually another whole piece.( unless you can make a patch for that part.

 Your tunnel looks like it has a lot of rot, so I would probably put a whole front pan in anyways.

[JonS]

72,

You are correct; the rear foot area needs replaced, the back seat is better than 75% there so I'll end up saving it.

The tunnel is actually deceptive.  There is no rush there and it is 100%.  The area that looks like rot towards the back is just dirty and also has some of the factory sealer.

Is there anyone that wants to take my buddies position that it is better to do the 2 - 3/4 panels or is he alone?  Any comments on the Dynacorn metal?

Thanks again,

Jon

[CudaNut]

I would clean or blast the shell and evaluate where you are at before buying any metal. How are the frame rails? The inner fenders? Other metal? From what I see you need at least all the interior pans, trunk pan and that rear under seat pan is not that hard to replace. Rust you can't see is what you have to worry about... As far as brand goes I recently used a complete set of pans from Sherman (generally same as Goodmark) and they fit fairly well at much less cost than AMD. I have not used Dynacorn. There are several dealers here on the board for metal that could save you some $$$ but get a good evaluation first.

[OxfordMotorSports]

www.ebodyproducts.com
dj1965@ebodyproducts.com

Contact Daniel. Go to his link and check out the floors on his Cuda.

Todd

OMS

NYC