Lost my clutch (hyd/Tremec)

[GreenFish]

thanks for the input.

I think I am going to switch to the Ram hyd bearing regardless. Just looking at it i can see i will cure some of the issues I have with the whatever brand bearing i was using before. Just for the fact that the Ram unit uses a male end on the bearing as opposed to a female end will be much easier to hook up. The bleed line is going to be much easier to work as well.

[ntstlgl1970]

    1   Front seal fails, or pitting of cylinder wall. Fluid leaks back towards the reservoir instead of pumping out the outlet pipe. This will result in reduced or no slave piston movement. The effects may vary with a borderline seal. (rebuild or replace master cylinder)

    2 Air in system- master, line, or slave cylinder. Air compresses, resulting in reduced piston movement, as above, & soft pedal. (bleed system)

    3 Rear seal fails, fluid leaks out the back of the master cylinder body, possibly onto the drivers foot. (R/R master cylinder)

    4 Piston doesn't return completely due to crud or rough surface. Cylinder remains partially pressurized, and slave doesn't return, leaving clutch in intermediate state. This may leak back slowly. (R/R master cylinder)

    5 Blockage of inlet - shortage of fluid, reduced piston travel, mushy pedal. (R/R master cyl.)

    6 Blockage of outlet -Hard pedal &/or fluid blows back past front seal. (R/R master cylinder)


Todd

Just wanted to add, the adjustable pushrod shown in your picture -if adjusted "too long" (preload) will give the same symptoms as #5 and not allow any accumulated air to exit the clutch master cylinder compensating port.

On systems I have worked on in the past, sometimes it helps to reverse bleed the system i.e. use the slave to bleed the master. Compress the slave cylinder and allow it to refill via gravity, this works very well even on systems without bleeders on either end of the system (many current OE installations have no bleeders).

Hope that you get it worked out whatever it takes...

[GreenFish]

Just wanted to add, the adjustable pushrod shown in your picture -if adjusted "too long" (preload) will give the same symptoms as #5 and not allow any accumulated air to exit the clutch master cylinder compensating port.

On systems I have worked on in the past, sometimes it helps to reverse bleed the system i.e. use the slave to bleed the master. Compress the slave cylinder and allow it to refill via gravity, this works very well even on systems without bleeders on either end of the system (many current OE installations have no bleeders).

Hope that you get it worked out whatever it takes...

I actually think the one (pushrod) i have is different and not adjustable. however, the bleeding technique you mention.  Do you mean push in the clutch pedal and add fluid then? The system did not have a bleeder the line originally and I had bought one later on. I currently have the one pictured. Before the method for bleeding was to simply pump the clutch pedal slowly. This took forever.

[ntstlgl1970]

I actually think the one (pushrod) i have is different and not adjustable. however, the bleeding technique you mention.  Do you mean push in the clutch pedal and add fluid then? The system did not have a bleeder the line originally and I had bought one later on. I currently have the one pictured. Before the method for bleeding was to simply pump the clutch pedal slowly. This took forever.

1. Fill the fluid reservoir (don't fill to the top, maybe 2/3 of the way so it doesnt overflow the reservoir)
2. Using a prybar or your hand (usually its easy to compress the slave), compress the slave cylinder/throwout bearing (bearing moves towards trans), slower works better. While compressing the slave, have a helper watch for bubbles in the reservoir
3. Check the level in the clutch master cylinder
4. Repeat as needed

Usually only 2 or 3 compressions of the slave will bleed the system. If you get to say 10 strokes of the slave and you still get air at the reservoir, there is an air leak somewhere.


 

[GreenFish]

Got it.. thanks

[brads70]

 

[OxfordMotorSports]

Did you figure it out yet?

Todd

[GreenFish]

ordering a new throw out bearing, waiting for arrival

[OxfordMotorSports]

 

Todd

OMS

NYC

[bigblue73]

What did you order Joe?  Great talking to you.  Before you install it give me a call.  I'm curious to see what failed here.  573-823-1813

[GreenFish]

Tony

never actually discovered what failed. I believe the system may have just needed to be bled or something of the sort.

I got the Ram TOB and hopefully will install this weekend. Ill give you a call cus I have a few questions.

thanks
joe

[GreenFish]

so I'm putting my transmission back in. I'm under the car and lifting the clutch and pressure plate when a piece of metal about an inch and a half long falls down on to my chest. I think "what the hell was that?"

Climb back out of the car and put the clutch and pressure plate back on the bench and have a look. 

There it is!  one of the pieces of metal along one of the chatter springs was missing, broke right off. I didnt see it the first time. But now I have my culprit and a reason why the clutch quit working.

The next question is how did it happen?

The only other damage to any parts was on the mini starter. The cast aluminum hood that protects the gear was cracked and broke off.

So what came first the chicken or the egg?

Did the starter crack and a piece got in there and rattled around breaking the clutch?

Did the clutch break possibly kicking back on the fly wheel breaking the starter?

My guess after more thought is the chicken or the starter. The car had bad gas in it and a few times starting the car the engine kicked back on the starter. This could have broke the starter hood. Maybe a piece of that got into the bell housing and broke the clutch.

Guess I'm buying a new clutch.

[GreenFish]

Ordered a Clutch Kit today. Hopefully will be here soon and ill be back on the road.