Anyone elses rearend houseing sittin in there car crooked? just noticed mine

[challydust]

moparal......all good points.....i havent wrecked the car or been hit since ive owned,....its never wore tires in the rear at all......when u measure from the front of the rear tire to the lip of the quarter say at 4 oclock position...theres a solid inch difference from right to left....its visible for sure to when u look at the car side to side...the pass tire has always sat in the wheel well  diff..(back towards the rear bumper)...i recently had a 4 wheel thrust done to see if the car was wrecked in that quarter? or the rear end was in there cockeyed....they say its the rear..BUt not to adjust it a full inch..cause whatever u do is goin to effect the other side...right.....so go like a 1/4 inch and see what happens....thats when i had the idea to relocate the spring perch hole.....now the car has always had ss springs on it since ive owned it...i checked the part numbers and there defin a ss part number...BUT i didnt know there was different ss springs out there......so that i dont know about....but its weird its never wore tires......this all started cause i went to big wheels and tires....now like i said it has ss's.....so clearence was never a problem....but now that ive put 2 inch lowering blocks in it....it rubs ever so lightly on the pass side...hence thats the side were the wheel sits farther back in the wheel well....other side with me in the car is no problem.....just the pass side...so since i brought the car down.....the offset rear is now causing me this rub......so what to do?....move the perch, move the hole, use thise shims im reading about on here...or take a grider to my innner wheel lip...lol....

[Aussie Challenger]

You shouldn't have to move the spring back 1", I would be checking the rear against the front and not the wheel arch as the body panels can be off quite a bit. I would also be checking a few points underneath and making sure that the car is square. What type of lowering blocks did you use, I found a couple a few years ago that were mis-casted and steel ones drilled offset.   

[challydust]

aussie not really sure if i understand your response.....i took it to a alighment shop to see if it was the panels or the rearend.....the cars always had that look even with the ole tires and wheels...just now its effecting because of me lowerin it so much....i used aluminum blocks from manicini by the way.....i doubt its the blocks, since like i said ive always noticed the wheel on that side sittin in the wheel well back further than the drivers side where it sits perfect in there...hence why it doesnt rub on that side...I hope moperal answers me back...im not sure what he means by a bent strut rod up front???.......and gmmachine on how much adjustment can i obtain with these shims?.....they would seem to me the easiest fix...thnaks guys and i hope to hear back from you

[GMachineDartGT]

I'd prefer to de arch the spring. Lowering blocks must be machined with an angle in them, as they will change the pinion angle and possibly create a vibration.

Just about every Mopar I've seen has the rear slightly offset. Some more than others.

As far as the alignment is concerned, it needs to be put on the machine, and all the starting measurements need to be taken. Then, you figure a game plan. It took me 3-4 hours at night on a friends machine to heights, level, shim, adj strut rods, re check and do cast/camb/toe.

[Aussie Challenger]

The strut rod at the front locates the lower control arm and if that is bent it will pull the arm forward slightly lengthening the wheel base on that side.
Sometimes the actual quarter panel has the wheel arch further forward or back on one side compared to the other, poor fitting from new or replacement panel.
Some alignment shops don't check the suspension for bent or damaged parts, all they do is hook up the equipment and do the alignment. They don't know what is wrong only that they cannot get the desired alignment results, remember that today most cars only have toe in and toe out, every other angle is not adjustable and the operator hasn't been trained (not all) to understand the caster and camber.
Lowering blocks that are cast are usually OK but if the locating hole on the top of the block was not opposite the protusion on the other side the rear axle would locate differently in relation to the spring, I found one once many years ago when installing them here in Australia.
When everything else checks out OK and there is still a difference then shims could be used but because the original bolts are not that long you will be limited in how thick or how many shims you can fit without using longer bolts.

[challydust]

Thanks gentleman.......if the strut rod is bent...would the front tires wear then?....as far as the springs go.....i wonder if it would behoove me to just eliminate the blocks then?.....as far as vibration ..i have none and ive checked my pinion angle and its withing spec from what ive read on here......my only problem is...and this is why i spent the 50 bucks with the blocks is...if they didnt lower my car enough then i was only out 50....if i woulda guessed on my exisiting springs (de arching them) or replaced my spring with new.....and i got either of that wrong im out alot more time and money...so the blocks to me made the most sense right now.....im on a limited budget with the economy that way it is....so....just tryin to capture what i want from the car within my budget.......i guess if i took my ss springs to a GOOD shop they could de arch them 2 inches on the nose?....since thats the blocks i put in.....just seems like guess work....ive read on here were guys bought those xd springs and complained of sag?......so that scares me......the  car drives great, and so far no tire wear....again it just the rubbbin issue....on the pass side......and i havent put a person in there either...so im sure its worse then.....gonna have to do something i guess....

[challydust]

something else im pondering about..IF i were to put the shims in....wouldnt i have to put them in the opposite side of the car, puttin the shims in the side that rubbin would only push the spring bracket and rear farther back wouldnt it?......so basically id be moving the other side back to even it up, am i understanding this right?...

[challydust]

if thats the case then id be pushing the rearend back evenly on the both sides and then both sides would rub...

[HP2]

You need to do some more uni-body analysis to figure out where the problem lies. It is never as simple as measuring a point or three, measuring body panels, or even having a thrust alignment. You will need to do cross measures from fixed locations to verify square of major components, then verify those with linear measurements. After that, then there is some mechanical analysis, such as disassembling pieces, to identify specific issues.

Do you have a factory service manual or at least the Mopar Chassis book?

[challydust]

I was afraid of that.....no i dont....this might be a bit over my head for my experience, honestly its not trackin bad or wearing tires....ive talked to a couple guys on here and they have been very helpful.....possible b body spring mount...so im checkin there first, its not a huge problem, more of an annoyance if anything, but i will try to measure to the best of my ability..i have a good friend thats an engineer, thats very capable of these sorts of ideas...so ill contact him i guess...

[nqkjw]

gmmachinedartgt,.....how many shims can one stick in between there?....im out quite a bit as my 4 wheel thrust alighment told me..but i have to move my rearend a solid 1/4 to 1/2 inch....i cant see how you could add that many shims to make up that kinda change...am i wrong here in my thinking then?.....just cant see how u could physically jam that many shims in there ya know

You'd fit 1/4" in there no worries at all.

[HP2]

Well, you might start by checking the measurement from the front of the spring eye or a fixed location on the spring mount to the axle housing locating pin to verify you have matching springs. If those are equal, then we can start moving in to things further.