Author Topic: Vacuum advance confusion  (Read 9223 times)

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #30 on: September 22, 2010 - 06:36:55 PM »
Can someone post a pic of this allen screw that can be adjusted to take the vacuum advance out?  Thanks!

the alan screw is in the module, access is through the nipple

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Offline cjm

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #31 on: September 22, 2010 - 06:41:02 PM »
35-36 degs is the wide open throttle number...all in by 3000, or there abouts.....and at wide open throttle, there should be virtually no vacuum present to activate the vacuum advance so that is all you will see.

At cruise, you should be able to handle somewhere in the range of 50-55 deg total advance which includes the additional provided by the vacuum advance.

Okay, so no vacuum present at 3k, but doesn't the vacuum that was in the lower rpm count in the total to the 3k. I thought that you calculate the total timing by adding (intial+vacuum+mechanical)....   Everything that I have read states that the total should not exceed 35/36 btdc (stock mopars)... I am curious where you got that 50-55 total # from... 

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #32 on: September 22, 2010 - 07:26:57 PM »
Can someone post a pic of this allen screw that can be adjusted to take the vacuum advance out?  Thanks!

The pod on your distributor that the vacuum advance hose connects to, just take that hose off. The Allen head screw is inside that pod where the hose connects. Counter-clockwise will retard the timing.

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Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #33 on: September 22, 2010 - 07:34:33 PM »
Can someone post a pic of this allen screw that can be adjusted to take the vacuum advance out?  Thanks!

On the adjustable mopar distributors, you pull the hose off the vacuum can and stick an allen wrench in the port.   I believe it is a 3/32" allen wrench. 

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #34 on: September 22, 2010 - 07:56:01 PM »
Okay, so no vacuum present at 3k, but doesn't the vacuum that was in the lower rpm count in the total to the 3k. I thought that you calculate the total timing by adding (intial+vacuum+mechanical)....   Everything that I have read states that the total should not exceed 35/36 btdc (stock mopars)... I am curious where you got that 50-55 total # from...

No....

total timing of 35/36 degs refers to Intial timing + the centrifugal mechanical advance.  This is a fairly common target for most engines give or take a couple of degrees. 

When we say 35/36 degs at 3000 rpm, that is the maximum timing we wish to see at wide open throttle...whether that is wide open throttle takes us to 5000 rpm, or 7000 rpm...we want that much timing applied and we want it to be applied by the time the engine reaches 3000 rpm....or some might say 2500 rpm....that part is a bit subjective depending upon the total combination.

Now, remember, this is for wide open throttle acceleration.  Hopefully that will allow us to make maximum power without detonation if everything is working properly.  Whatever number one decides upon, we always set this first with the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor and plugged going back to the carb so it cannot interfere with our adjustments.


That 35/36 degs does not necessarily give optimum gas mileage at cruise where the load on the engine is low...it may only take 35-45 hp to maintain a cruising speed.   What is more likely to give us maximum efficiency in conditions like this is a total timing of say 55 degs.  So how do we do that?  We use the vacuum advance to rotate the plate in the distributor so that we can get more timing out of it than the centrifugal advance allows....but this vacuum advance only works under high vacuum conditions which are only present when the throttle blades are nearly closed...like is the case when cruising.

So...perhaps we have 16 degs initial advance + 20 degs centrifugal advance which deals with our wide open throttle situation, and we have another potential of say 19 degs which should only be present at cruise when the vacuum is high due to the nearly closed throttle blades.  That gives us our cake for performance and the ability to eat it for gas mileage.

On race engines we usually lose the vacuum part and lock the plate down so we have absolute timing control and no jitter in the curve from the plate wobbling around.  If you don't drive the car very much and don't care about gas mileage, then there is no real need for the vacuum advance.  If you drive the car a lot, then it helps considerably much of the time.

There are lotsa good articles online with much better explanations, I am sure.

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #35 on: September 22, 2010 - 08:04:12 PM »
 :iagree: Just Google Maximum Vacuum Advance & you will see many articles saying basically the same thing be it Mopar, Cheby, Pontiac, Ferd.etc.etc.
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #36 on: September 22, 2010 - 08:19:26 PM »
Below is the section from the Mopar instructions regarding vacuum advance adjustment.   Looks like it takes a special alien wrench :)  I guess the tech writers at Chrysler are from another world?


8. Once the initial timing setting has been completed, unplug and reconnect the vacuum hose to the distributor. With the vacuum hose connected,
make 2 or 3 steady, part throttle runs. There should not be any detonation, surges or hesitation in the engine. If there is, the vacuum advance unit
is adding too much advance to the spark curve. If so, with the engine turned off, disconnect the vacuum hose. Carefully insert a 3/32 alien wrench
into the fitting where the vacuum hose was connected to the vacuum advance canister. You will be able to feel the alien wrench go into an internal
alien screw used to adjust the amount of advance provided by the canister. Be careful not to puncture the diaphragm inside the canister. With the
alien wrench plugged into the adjusting screw, turn the alien wrench 1/2 turn (180 degrees) clockwise to reduce the vacuum advance by
approximately 2 to 3 degrees.
Remove the alien wrench, reconnect the vacuum hose and rerun the part throttle test. Repeat this procedure until
the detonation, surging and/or stumbling is eliminated.

Offline mojavered

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #37 on: September 23, 2010 - 11:14:14 AM »
That 35/36 degs does not necessarily give optimum gas mileage at cruise where the load on the engine is low...it may only take 35-45 hp to maintain a cruising speed.   What is more likely to give us maximum efficiency in conditions like this is a total timing of say 55 degs.  So how do we do that?  We use the vacuum advance to rotate the plate in the distributor so that we can get more timing out of it than the centrifugal advance allows....but this vacuum advance only works under high vacuum conditions which are only present when the throttle blades are nearly closed...like is the case when cruising.

So...perhaps we have 16 degs initial advance + 20 degs centrifugal advance which deals with our wide open throttle situation, and we have another potential of say 19 degs which should only be present at cruise when the vacuum is high due to the nearly closed throttle blades.  That gives us our cake for performance and the ability to eat it for gas mileage.

On race engines we usually lose the vacuum part and lock the plate down so we have absolute timing control and no jitter in the curve from the plate wobbling around.  If you don't drive the car very much and don't care about gas mileage, then there is no real need for the vacuum advance.  If you drive the car a lot, then it helps considerably much of the time.

There are lotsa good articles online with much better explanations, I am sure.

I haver not gotten around to the articles on line yet.....But, if I am getting 59-60* when all in and not getting any detonation, pinging, hesitation, surging, stumbling, or anything else, is it ok to run that much timing?  Or should I retard the timing in the vacuum advance?  My starts are easy when the car is warm.  Anything that I should or could look for to tell me to retard the vacuum advance at all?  Can you lose top end with too much advance?
Jason

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #38 on: September 23, 2010 - 02:43:09 PM »
If you have no hesitation or detonation at light throttle acceleration with the total advance you are seeing, then it is fine....otherwise, the instructions that I snipped out (paragraph 8-above) should be followed to reduce the total supplemental vacuum advance.

It is hard to state a hard number that should work as the compression, camshaft, ambient condition atmospheric conditions, etc all have some effect on the results.  Generally, most cars will tolerate at least 50 degs, but, I have seen some that would accept over 60.

sounds like yours is doing okay to me.

Offline Aussie Challenger

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Re: Vacuum advance confusion
« Reply #39 on: September 24, 2010 - 06:17:43 AM »
Strawdawg has said most that needs to be said. Do all your initial timing settings with the vac. disconnected, when everything is working fine then connect the vac advance if you want to use it and then make sure that there are no other problems like surging.
Dave