Young and in Love

[JoltinJoe]

You will have a difficult time hearing engine ping with that exhaust leak.

I mentioned a vacuum leak earlier in this link.  I think that needs to be corrected before advancing your time and turn your dist.  If I were you, I'd turn everything back, get that paint off the h.balancer and correct the vacuum leak.  Then work the timing as explained above.

Of course, none of this matters with the exhaust leak.  I think you said that you have a 360 in there.  I have a pair of exhaust manifolds off my 360.  Otherwise, get a pair of those 1970 AAR exhaust manifolds ($300 on average).  If you think that converting your exhaust pipes back to except manifolds will be too much of a pain, then just find a USED pair of Dougs or TTI.  Paying for new ones would be a waste of money for your application.

Party on!

[FinallyRearDrive]

Thanks. Its a 383, so your manifolds wouldn't work, but that's a good idea to try to find some used pipes. I'll start looking. Are there any hot spots I should first look at for a vac. leak? or is it pretty much random where they pop up? I rebuilt the carb, and I don't know how old the dist. is (it had electronic ignition before I got it) so I don't konw how old the vac. advance or the lines are. Thanks in advance for the guidance.

[Chryco Psycho]

I though maybe you had manifolds on the car now . the Only headers I can recommend are the 2 I listed , both fit the car well & have good plug clearance , cheaper ones can cause a multitude of problems , hitting anything , poor ground clearance & burning wires

[Aussie Challenger]

I know that TTi make a header set for the 383 which is different to the RB block headers.
Don't worry about the vac advance, get the mechanical working properly first, all tuning should be done with vac advance disconnected anyway and then if you want to have it connect and recheck idle.