brakes, again....

[Moparal]

check out this post. It has a spring im talkin about. May be the issue, im not sure

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=50950.0

[mojavered]

Thanks for the pics.  I do have a pin that goes through the pedal there, no spring.  I wonder if this has been my problem the whole time?  I will find a spring and attach it, see what happens.  In the meanwhile, I will put the new prop valve in and remove the residual valve.  I notice that my front drivers side is hooked to the residual valve.  Will removing this valve create any more problems?  I have front disc, rear drum.  Replacing prop with an adjustable prop valve. 

[mojavered]

I took a look at the pin, and it only has a hole in it, for what I thought a key clip/pin should go.  Am I wrong and need to put a spring there?
I changed out my prop valve, my master cylinder, and bleed the brakes.  Still having the same problem.  I am at a loss! Booster, vacuum problem?  I will bleed them again.  But it has to be something simple and I am just missing it.

[Bullitt-]

You said in the original post that the rear brakes are working just fine.... Is there any chance that they need adjustment? I only question this as after my brake system overhaul(not on the road yet) the pedal was going to the floor but after re-adjusting the rear brakes using a brake spoon & correcting the self adjuster installation my pedal now seems normal.

[mojavered]

You said in the original post that the rear brakes are working just fine.... Is there any chance that they need adjustment? I only question this as after my brake system overhaul(not on the road yet) the pedal was going to the floor but after re-adjusting the rear brakes using a brake spoon & correcting the self adjuster installation my pedal now seems normal.

The arm that is close to the "star" is the self adjuster, should it be touching the star?  Or just be close?  I will look at them again, just to be sure.  I have never had a spoon, only a flat head screw driver.  Is there an advantage?

[Road_Runner]

The arm that is close to the "star" is the self adjuster, should it be touching the star?  Or just be close?  I will look at them again, just to be sure.  I have never had a spoon, only a flat head screw driver.  Is there an advantage?

If I understand your question correctly, the arm should rest against the 'star' so that as it turns the arm keeps it from backing off.  You adjust the threaded piston turning the star until the brakes are just barely touching against the inside of the drum.  You do this by taking the drum on & off checking for play.  You can also adjust it from the back of the backing plate using a spoon if you have one, but I prefer doing it with the wheel off to make sure its right.  If your arm doesn't rest the way I say you probably don't have everything lined up just right, I know I've done it myself.

[Bullitt-]

Yes the adjuster arm should be in contact with the star in the lower quadrant, I discovered by accident that pulling straight down with pliers on the arm "cocks" it & it will pull itself into the star. You can test it's operation by pressing out on the adjuster cable, the adjuster should rotate the star, (there are left & right stars so be sure they are on the correct side) ..... Brake spoon is basically a flat blade shaft with a bend to clear the axle housing, much easier to use.

[mojavered]

I finally had some time.  Changed out the proportioning valve, left out the metering valve.  Still had same problem.  R&R'd both the master cylinder and the power booster.  I made sure that there is nothing binding on the pedal before I installed the booster.  Lubed all bushings and the pin that goes through the booster arm.  Adjusted the rear brakes.  Bleed system, pedal goes down even further (probably need to bleed again) and stays down still.  What next?  I am almost thinking of taking it to a shop!

[72cudamaan]

Are you sure that the front brakes are actually working.  The piston seal serves two purposes. 1) obviously seals the fluid in the piston bore. 2) The seal has a unique bevel to it that makes it retract the piston slightly. I am wondering if maybe the seals aren't functioning properly, thus causing the piston not to retract. Thou generally the rear brakes control pedal height so I also wonder about the installation ( and, or) strength of the rear springs.

[mopar12372]

what year car is this ? if its a 1972-74 the front brakes wont bleed if you dont pull the little pin out while bleeding brakes after you make sure its pushed in.

[mojavered]

It is a 71. 

I have gone through everything.  I took the pedal assembly apart yesterday, even though all the bushings are there and look good.  Apparently, there is rust built up on the pins that the pedal pivots on.  I pulled them, cleaned them and lubed them and put it back together.  It is better now, but still has an occasional hang up.  I wonder if I have the offset pedal that requires the spring that was mentioned earlier?  Does anyone know what the diameter and length of the spring are?  Can someone post a pic of one?  I looked at the pics of th spring attached on that other thread, but cannot tell what the ends of the spring look like to see how it attaches.  Thanks for all the help so far.