TTI header install on my BB Challenger

[73 ralley]

Any body know whether or not I should use the stock exhaust studs in the head or not? They did send new bolts for them but I'm not sure how hard they are to remove or do I risk snapping them off during removal. Should a thread locker be used with either item?

[Cooter]

Haven't had the $$$ for the TTI headers, but have run the studs with Hooker/Hedman/etc. It makes it a little challenging to get the headers back far enough to get over the studs, but if you can run them, do it...

Remember, the studs go into water, and if you've ever pulled a header because of a leak, and had all your coolant drain out because of header BOLTS being installed, then you'll be glad you stuck with the studs.

[73 ralley]

Thats a very good point. Advice noted, i'll see this weekend what kind of clearance i have. Thanks

[Doomed]

Do yourself a favour and do not use the studs. They are the difference between a good and a bad day.

Kyle.

[polarbear123]

 
Not as bad on TTI, but a big pain for Hookers

[73EStroker]

TTI give you the hardware necessary. They use header bolts all the way.

[Topcat]

My friend who is an outstanding mechanic and a race car owner turned me onto a great idea on making sure your headers won't get leaks at the flange. He told me he has tried many different brands and they all end up leaking at the flanges eventually.

What he does is he takes the header to his large flat table sander and puts the facing flange onto it. This insures a perfect flush fit without any leak issues.

I would recommend doing this before you install them.

[beekppr]

I put the TTIs on the 383 in my Superbee. I tried using the studs and as Doomed put it, I was having a really bad day.

The headers fit sweet on my B body but trust me when I say there is no extra room.

I went with the bolts they provided and used lots of sealant for the water jackets.

By the way, I found I had to set the car on really tall stands and still used my engine hoist to lift one side of the engine at a time to coax em in.

Good luck. The rest of their system fits in so easy, a child could do it.

Years later, I still love mine.

[73 ralley]

Well I got them in this past weekend and all went well. I spoke to TTI directly and they said with using cast stock heads it maybe easier to use the existing studs, change for cosmetic or clearance issues only. Clearance wasn't any issue and the parts store gave me crimped brass nuts that look good on there.

As far as install issues go;
-car ramps are not high enough i had to jack car up higher to give myself enough room to manipulate headers in. 
-starter was removed and very awkward to re-install (took alot of patients)
-protecting the finish of headers is crutial (leave bubble wrap on until in place)
This one most of you will laugh at but in the heat of fustration and trying to create clearance I had already removed the screw to hold the trans dip stick and swung it to the side but I figured it would be less in the way if I removed it and my hand was quicker than my mind and out poured the oil before getting it back into place. OOPS!
Gotta get me a car hoist. It would have made this job a breeze. Thanks for all your posts, we'll talk again soon.

[Strawdawg]

sounds like it has too much oil in it to me.  Sure you have the right dipstick for the car?

[73 ralley]

Ya, I wouldn't know either way but it reads that high on the dipstick when it isn't running and where it should read when it is running and in neutral, so thats a good question. Would it not force it up and out the dipstick if it was over filled?

[Strawdawg]

Ya, I wouldn't know either way but it reads that high on the dipstick when it isn't running and where it should read when it is running and in neutral, so thats a good question. Would it not force it up and out the dipstick if it was over filled?

Not unless the crankcase is pressurized by a blown headgasket, or such.

If you count the quarts going in after an oil change, the level should not be high enuf to run out the fill tube hole in the block when the engine is off....it should be below it...or you run the risk of cavitation which can push air thru the system as well as make the oil appear foamy