need help removing LCA pin

[brads70]

Is there any way to remove the pin without destroying anything? I did a search as saw to use heat and a pickel fork. I just got a set of A-Body LCA's with new rubber bushings and it would be nice if I could save them? I'm using A-Body LCA's in my Challenger and need to swap in the E-Body pin. Can I press out the pin from the T-bar side?
Thanks Brad

[mopar12372]

get a hand held butane torche heat the bushing until it hets hot and push it out rubber and all.
take caution as there will be smoke and fire . just be careful , i have done this many times .

[SageCuda]

I did mine a few weeks back, and found this to be of help:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tipstricks/155_0306_control_arms/index.html

[Bullitt-]

Not knowing any better I soaked them down with penetrating lube, cinched the pin in a bench vice & worked the LCA back an forth....took a bit but the pin worked out with no damage to the bushing.

[Moparal]

7 dollar bushing. I would just remove it all and install new bushing and your pin. Takes about 20 minutes.


oh, and yes you can press the pin out through the back side, but usually it takes the inner steel sleeve with it

[brads70]

 thanks everyone! Al I didn't realize they were so cheap. I bought new greaseable pins from firm feel and urethane bushings. I'll just warm them up then!

[brads70]

I used the propane torch method and with a little prying out they came!  Thanks again everyone!
I was surprised that the stock bushings were only about an inch  or so long? The poly ones from Firm Feel are the whole length of the steel sleeve. They went in pretty easy too!
Does this look like they are installed ok? ( First time doing this?)

[mopar12372]

when you tighten the lca you might have to hold the pivot with plyers or vice grips.
they will stiffen up when the torsion bars are adjusted / weight of the car. make sure you lube them really good so noise is at a minimum.

[Moparal]

    To me, it looks like it changes the front end geometry for an alignment.  The pin being so far away from the arm.  Is that the reason for home made adjustable torsion bars that you made?  Will the caster be way off? 

[brads70]

   To me, it looks like it changes the front end geometry for an alignment.  The pin being so far away from the arm.  Is that the reason for home made adjustable torsion bars that you made?  Will the caster be way off?

I'll check but I don't think the shoulder on the pin is any farther away from the LCA than stock, as the stock bushing was level with the steel shell in the LCA? On the T-bar side the pin is in the same depth as the stock one? 
I wanted adjustable strut rods for 2 reasons, (1) I wanted to use the 3/16 longer A-Body LCA's to compensate for the taller spindle ( C-Body) and the taller ball joint.
( Howe)
and (2) so I could get the LCA moving without binding as per Firm Feel and Cap Auto instructions.In my quest for better handling?

[brads70]

when you tighten the lca you might have to hold the pivot with plyers or vice grips.
they will stiffen up when the torsion bars are adjusted / weight of the car. make sure you lube them really good so noise is at a minimum.

Good point , I'll watch out for that! Maybe mill to flats on it for a wrench if I have to?