Shadango, In defence of the cap strut there has gotta be something screwy with your K-frame or something? 
I did a lot of "research" looking into the cap auto strut before I decided to buy one
( which I never did) and never saw anywhere anyone having a problem with them? Hotchkis uses the same basic design except the bolt is mounted the opposite way and uses a lock nut. Never heard of Hotchkis or a car strut rod coming loose? With the Internet I'm sure it wouldn't be long till we heard of it if there was a problem?
Well, a locknut or lockwasher could be a huge difference.
I dont know what could be wrong with my k-member that would make it rotate.....
Ray said via email
"the 2 o'clock is a rough guide, it may be the neutral position is more like 3, so if it
want to go to back to 3, you may consider locking it down there. Best way to
be certain is to remove tension for torsion bar, slide it out and manually
move the suspension up and down with the strut bar finger tight in the
front. @ things should be evident. First no bind should be present, if there
is that is because the struts are adjusted too long. If there is bind,
loosen off nuts and shorten it until bind is removed. Secondly the motion up
and down will give you the plane that the slot should be set to. Find it,
lock it down and re-assemble."
Thing is, I followed those instructions to the letter...and even rechecked it a couple times when I first installed them.
I dont understand how the struts work I guess, because it seems to me that the 3 oclock position isnt correct for the joints and the way they have to pivot with the lower control arm......
On the other hand, you would think they will "settle" where they have the least bindage, etc....but that also means that there is enough bindage in use to be moving the end block against the torque of the bolt.....which also doesnt seem right to me, considering the heim joint is supposed to move freely in that block with no binding...which it was doing when using the procedure listed above....
