k member reinforcements

[dr_dodge]

anyone fab'd on crossmembers for added strength or had any structural problems
redoing my 72 challenger before I drop in the 440 and I plan on beefing the suspension for handling (stock car stuff) too
I hate jap rice cars and want to not only dust them off the line, but Dodge them thru freeway traffic

dr dodge

[Chryco Psycho]

 Add braces to the steering box mounts under high load the steering box will move instead of the tires  

[dr_dodge]

Got any pics of  what to add?  Is it cool to weld the whole k member solid as to stop any flexing and tuffen it up on the occasional bottom out (mother only spot welds)
thanks

dr  

[Dark Horse]

how about subframe connectors?

[Chryco Psycho]

Basically add gussets east /west to the streering box supports , sorry no pix handy.
 I definatly recommend subframe connecters it will noticibly stiffen the car  

[dr_dodge]

planned on subframe connectors and a 4 point that ties into the rear spring mount crossmember.  MOPAR also suggested boxing longitudinals (front and rear) to the sill plate, so I planned on doing that too.  I'll try and take some pics after its done (probably about a month)
I have been thinking about the front spring in longitudinals, but am unsure if I am going to do that yet
Have you ever done that?

dr

[dr_dodge]

my direct connection bible (from 1980) shows sketches of the modified rear longitudinals from the factory sponsored super stock cars where the rear longs. are cut open and the super stock springs are mounted inside.  This gains 2.5 " extra clearance.  3 mount holes are drilled vertically 1" apart for the front of the spring, gaining adjustability, and is the strongest and lightest means to relocate the springs.  No need to build a complete rear subframe to stuff some serious meat in the wheel wells

dr

[dr_dodge]

oh by the way
I saw what you were talking about on the steering box mount.....whimpy....
I fab'd 3 plates (out of 3/8 plate) to box it in
1 small one vertically under, one larger one horizontally under, and one vertically in the back of the mount (actually front of the car)
welded with high strength nickel rods
I am bummed that I added about a pound and a half to the front end
supposed to be taking weight off
oh well

dr

[Chryco Psycho]

 I Have built mounts like the factory ones on the inside of the frame rail  & moved the springs right inside the frame, this is a lot easier to do than notching the frame rail & will give even more clearance  

[dr_dodge]

I was thinking about that, too
I had a 72 Demon big block w/4.56 gears and 11' slicks
it had mounts like that (I didn't build it)
but it kept trying to rip the frame out where it was welded
had 2 different people try to fix it and it would hold for a while then rip the virgin steel before or after the patch
Thought about using 2" box tubing and making a mini crossmember

dr

[Chryco Psycho]

or round tube ,it is stronger you could hole saw through the frame rail & weld on both sides
When I moved the mount to the inside I built triangular gussets extending forward about 5" on the edges [top & bottom] of the frame rail & have had no problems  
'

[dr_dodge]

thanks
I may do that instead
my car has a rear sway bar and I haven't engineered back there much to see if it will interfere with the other components
need to finish one end before I gut the other

you guys have a great site and I'm probably hooked for life

dr

[Chryco Psycho]

Thanks .... I`m addicted to ,know where I can get good help??? :-/

[dr_dodge]

you know what the difference between race cars and drug addiction is??

no halfway house

dr