Author Topic: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II (Read 1987 times)

sac2dude · « **on:** May 02, 2011 - 01:36:54 AM »

All,

After a bit of hiatus, I've finally returned to working on the brakes. Everything looks good, EXCEPT that new caliper hoses I'm using for the 11.75 swap don't seen to fit well (it's the banjo bolt version, with a couple of washers).

I'm posting some pics, so for anyone who's done this swap, could you let me know if this looks right? Do I have the proper washers and such? Is the caliper hose supposed to route up and around? It looks like I have to bend the brakelines upward?

Thanks for your help!

Rich B.

brads70 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 02, 2011 - 10:22:50 AM »

Hose is on upside down, brake line on chassis that connects to the flex line should come in from the top

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #2 on:** May 02, 2011 - 10:56:23 AM »

the hose is incorrect , I use a different hose , I wil see if I can find the part #

sac2dude · « **Reply #3 on:** May 03, 2011 - 01:04:11 AM »

I was following the parts list that Katfish had mentioned on the previous "11.75 swap" thread. Here's what he had:

raybestos w/pad RC4103/4 $36.00
78 charger (slider)

outer bearing BR2 $6.00
78 charger

wearever rotor YH141132 $52.00
78 charger

dorfman banjo bolt 13938 $5.00

inner wheel bearing BR17 $8.00
77 charger

inner seal 19500 $2.00
77 charger

raybestos hose 4536755 $15.00
76 duster

The parts all seem to fit, and that caliper hose is the Raybestos 4536755, however I can't see how it can go "down" instead of up, given that the knuckle is in the way. It just looks odd, and I'm guessing if I had front brake lines for a 70's A-Body, that the rec capped end fitting would be facing UP instead of DOWN, but the inline tube kit I installed was for a '70 Challenger with disc brakes, so I guess they must be different. I can attempt to carefully bend it upward... but I wanted to hear opinions from those who'd been through this before. Perhaps it would've fit better if the caliper was placed towards the front of the car instead of the rear? I have no idea...

Any help is appreciated though!

Thanks,

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #4 on:** May 03, 2011 - 01:43:14 AM »

I am trying to remember the # for the hose I use , I think it ends in 828

brads70 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 03, 2011 - 08:41:00 AM »

I was looking for a betterpicture but this is the best I could do. I used Russell stainless flex lines but they bolt in and replace / mount just like stock. Hope that helps some?

sac2dude · « **Reply #6 on:** May 03, 2011 - 04:01:22 PM »

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help! I'm getting the impression that I might simply need to "bend" things alittle bit, depending on clearance. I'll also take a look at my old caliper hoses... perhaps they can be rigged to fit better than the banjo bolt style.

Strawdawg · « **Reply #7 on:** May 04, 2011 - 10:04:57 AM »

Brad's pic shows the correct routing for the hard line-hose should come from the bottom

sac2dude · « **Reply #8 on:** May 04, 2011 - 12:14:32 PM »

Excellent! At least I got that part right...

barracuda7199 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 04, 2011 - 03:57:43 PM »

aren't your calipers on backwards? if they are you are going to have to swap spindles side to side. in mopar action when they do this the calipers are on the front as mine are when i done this swap. i have those same calipers but mine are on the front. the banjo block on the brake line barely hits the control arm. you need calipers and hoses for a 73 or 74 cuda then mount them on the front like the factory did and everything will line up. read here this guy knows his stuff http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

72rtchallenger · « **Reply #10 on:** May 04, 2011 - 06:03:48 PM »

Quote from: barracuda7199 on May 04, 2011 - 03:57:43 PM

aren't your calipers on backwards? if they are you are going to have to swap spindles side to side. in mopar action when they do this the calipers are on the front as mine are when i done this swap. i have those same calipers but mine are on the front. the banjo block on the brake line barely hits the control arm. you need calipers and hoses for a 73 or 74 cuda then mount them on the front like the factory did and everything will line up. read here this guy knows his stuff http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

calipers mount to the front of the car not to the rear as yours are pictured and cant tell for sure but calipers appear swapped also as the lines it i recall correctly the lines are opposite

sac2dude · « **Reply #11 on:** May 05, 2011 - 02:36:43 AM »

Well, the calipers themselves are mounted in the proper orientation (bleed nipple at the top). But swapping the spindles will really suck.... :-(

barracuda7199 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 05, 2011 - 07:49:33 AM »

i know it will but it has to be done or i would think you could kink a hose or possibly pull it apart which would really suck!! those calipers will not work when you put them on the front! the banjo block will hit the lower control arm. they hit on my car i really need to change the calipers on mine.

sac2dude · « **Reply #13 on:** May 05, 2011 - 12:38:12 PM »

I want to thank everyone for all your advice! I see where my confusion was caused... I was reading another article: http://waywardgarage.com/135/brake-swaps-for-mopar-musclecars/

Under the "Spindle" section, it has this in the last paragraph:

"Unlike the �70-72 B-, and all E-body spindles, the late model spindle mounts the caliper to the rear of the rotor. This allows fitting disc breaks to the �66-69 B-bodies equipped with the factory front sway bar without interference problems."

Since I swapped to late model spindles, and indeed the caliper was mounted to the rear of the rotor, I felt it best to leave it that way.

But ultimately it's a plumbing problem - what hose works best without kinking and with proper clearance. I've got both types of caliper hoses (with and without banjo bolt), so I'll do some experimentation this weekend, see what works out the best. If I have to swap sides than I might as well do it. It won't be too terrible, the car is still on stands and all, it's just "one of those things"...

sac2dude · « **Reply #14 on:** June 08, 2011 - 01:16:53 PM »

All,

It's been a while, but I thought I'd update this thread and put it to rest.

The hoses work fine. I went with these: Raybestos PN# 36830 and 36831 - they're nice and long, and only required two modifications.
1 - remote the weird bracket in the middle of the hose with a pair of pliers.
2 - carefully bend the short metal line nearly 90 degrees down.

Works like a charm. The bend turns the hose nearly straight down, right next to the caliper bracket bolt. No binding and clears everything. Hardest part was torquing the banjo bolts to 35 ftlbs, since the clearance between the bolt and the upper A arm ball joint wouldn't allow a socket and wrench to fit. Used a 5/8 box end adapter to my wrench - then everything was cool.

Thanks again for all your help!

Author Topic: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II (Read 1987 times)

sac2dude

11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

brads70

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

Chryco Psycho

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

sac2dude

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

Chryco Psycho

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

brads70

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

sac2dude

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

Strawdawg

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

sac2dude

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

barracuda7199

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

72rtchallenger

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

sac2dude

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

barracuda7199

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

sac2dude

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II

sac2dude

Re: 11.75 Disc Brake Upgrade problem! - Part II