Steering Box and Coupler

[73EStroker]

So my Chally has been getting a little looser in the steering department. Everything is new, body is tight, entire car has poly bushings etc. This car was rebuilt from the ground up and the body work was done by a certified bodyman British Columbia.
So took a look at the steering coupler and she has gotten sloppy. Also the "new" rebuilt steering box has the input shaft moving back and forth about 1/8" which all adds up to about an 1/8 turn on the steering wheel. Half of it is the coupler as I turned that portion by hand and watched the wheel as this was done.
So the questions are:
1. Can someone please tell me the part # for the coupler rebuild kit
2. Seeing as the box is "new" can the end play be adjusted by screwing in the bearing retainer? Or is it more complicated than that.
3. Would the play be part of the up/down adjustment? I do not believe so but I stand corrected if it is!

[Chryco Psycho]

As you would suspect I do not have the part # handy for the coupler kit but there is a new one at home !!
on a new power steering box the box should have no play , do you have a warranty ?
the up & down movement is definatly making the steering sloppy , if the shaft is moving vertically it is not moving the sector shaft as it moves to the end of the travel first

[Strawdawg]

this shows the number of the kit

http://www.moparsupercenter.com/mopar-steering-coupling-rebuild-kit-4443436ac4443436ac.html

[73EStroker]

Oh jeeez! Looks like I gotta undo my TTIs and scratch them all again to change this box out. Isn't there an end play adjustment by turning the large bearing retainer in a bit more? Might get a firm feel unit if it has to be changed. Warranty will be gonzo by now. What about a R&P conversion? Or does one have to go with tubular K Frame setup for that.

[Chryco Psycho]

there is a rack that bolts onto the stock K frame & it works with the stock steering knuckles , not sure of the manufacturer though.
 The CAP system uses the Mustang II spindle & a different lower control arm using the  Torsionbar [the only one to do this ], places the rack out front  , but it needs the tubular X member  .
 I don't recommend the Magnum Force system for street use

[HP2]

Unisteer makes the bolt on R&P conversion. However, based on all the negative feedback I've seen regarding a retrofit R&P and the incompatibility in rack movement vs steering arm movement, I'd recommend leaving the R&P units for the tubular set ups where all the geometry has been desinged around their specific range of motion.