Id

[MEK-Dangerfield]

It tough if you don't have much of a budget, but I would say you could get a running, driving A-body car for less than you would pay for an E-body or 68-70 B-body.

[Challenger6pak]

71 B body cars are also decent cars.  My 71 B's had a nicer ride than my Ebodies.

[Schimms15]

I'm going to have to look around and see what prices are out there. I'd like to pay 1000 but i know that is way to little. But if it was complete outside but no engine I'd be fine

[Challenger6pak]

I think entry level into anything decent is around $4,000.   I don't want to discourage you.  You can use $4,000 as a goal.  Anything you would get at $1,000 will be missing so many parts that it will not be worth restoring.  It will cost too much.  At the same time you might find something.  You never know.  If you do find something, take a lot of pics and feel free to post them here.  There are plenty of knowledgeable people here that will be able to tell you if the car is a good investment or not. 
Tod

[Schimms15]

Ya I'm not going to begin looking untill august. I'm up north now and there was a huge yard up here with everything from 40-80 cars lots and lots. But he shut down and everything is gone I have no clue where all the cars went but I wish I would have stopped

['Cuda Hunter]

Car yards are getting crushed across this nation. 
If you know of a yard, you better go and check what they have frequently.

I lost a great yard in my town.  Several good Mopars that I took for granted.
Wish I would have purchased those "parts cars" before they were turned into chinese forks.

Start with 1K and add to it.  By the time you find a car you want, you might have a good bit more saved.

Took me 9 years of looking before I could purchase my first 71 at a reasonable price.
Had to by several 72-74's to help curb the anticipation of looking for a 71.

Good luck! 

[Schimms15]

On craigslist I found 2 curse a 72 and a 70 both need work but the 72 runs truer want 5g each which I can't swing but the 1970 is bad but the guy is selling car plus parts for 5 I'll see if he will deal on just the car. Plus I'm going to hit yards

[burdar]

To answer your original question, an E-body Cuda is going to have a 2" shorter wheelbase then a Challenger.  Also, if the quarters are still intact, a Cuda quarter has a horrizontal body line.  The Challenger body line curves upward right after the door.  The tail panels will be different.  The fuel filler knecks are also in a different location.  The Cuda filler kneck is behind the lisence plate.  A Challengers is in the passengers side quarter panel.   Finally, the Cuda has a more angled side window opening where a Challengers side window area is more curved.  Even a stripped E-body should be easy to identify as a Cuda or Challenger.

I'm on the home stretch of restoring a very rusty 73 Challenger.  I'd like to do an A-body someday if I have the money.  I'll definately spend more up front to get a rust free car.  Even if you replace all of the rusty panels, there is still rust damage that you will never be able to completely hide.  Starting with a cleaner car will allways net a nicer car in the end.

Good luck in the hunt.

[Schimms15]

Could you post a picture of the cuda fuel filer kneck