Author Topic: Strut Rod removal  (Read 7468 times)

Offline anlauto

  • Permanent Resident
  • *******
  • Posts: 12328
  • I'm Alan G...I'm a Mopar Addict
    • Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration
Re: Strut Rod removal
« Reply #15 on: September 29, 2013 - 03:56:21 PM »
 :iagree: That is the same tool I use exactly. When I add heat it's only to the "socket" of the lower control arm and is only with a small propane tourch...just enough to get that old grease melting... :2cents:
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com




Offline rattlesnake

  • Rattlesnake
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 431
Re: Strut Rod removal
« Reply #16 on: September 29, 2013 - 10:14:18 PM »
cool, if you got the money and access but out here in the sticks we sometimes have to make do. preciatecha
keep honking I'm reloading

Offline Jasonwiltshire

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 11
Re: Strut Rod removal
« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2013 - 11:58:16 AM »
:iagree:  The torsion bars are case hardened on the outside and have temper in alloy.  If you scratch the bars deeply it will cause the bar to fail .Any heat you apply to the bar will weaken it. Torsion bars should never be removed with vise grips. A proper torsion bar tool is needed.  :2cents:

Thats a nice pic.  I definitely like to work with the right tool when it is necessary and I am beginning to think it is necessary here.  Not in any rush at this point so I guess I will prolly order that tool.  Thanks for all the help.  TORSION BAR REMOVAL:  Heat to LCA socket.  T-bar Tool.  Hammer.  Make sure LCA is at bottom of its travel and bounce it up and down for additional loosening. Good summation?

Jason

Offline brads70

  • C-C.com Expert
  • ********
  • Posts: 18747
Re: Strut Rod removal
« Reply #18 on: September 30, 2013 - 04:13:14 PM »
Thats a nice pic.  I definitely like to work with the right tool when it is necessary and I am beginning to think it is necessary here.  Not in any rush at this point so I guess I will prolly order that tool.  Thanks for all the help.  TORSION BAR REMOVAL:  Heat to LCA socket.  T-bar Tool.  Hammer.  Make sure LCA is at bottom of its travel and bounce it up and down for additional loosening. Good summation?

Jason

Sometimes it helps to loosen/unbolt the LCA  as well! :2thumbs:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline jhaag

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 616
Re: Strut Rod removal
« Reply #19 on: September 30, 2013 - 09:03:50 PM »
Jason, if you are taking the car all the way apart, do what I did. Drop the k member slightly, and slide it forward. Might take some wiggling and a little help from a friend, but that is what I did to get the torsion bars out. You can then remove the LCA and strut rods.
love 70 Challengers

Offline Aracer

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 452
Re: Strut Rod removal
« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2013 - 01:57:44 AM »
The whole lower C. A. will pry rearward when unbolted and un-clipped.

Offline Chryco Psycho

  • Administrator
  • C-C.com Guru
  • *****
  • Posts: 36620
  • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
Re: Strut Rod removal
« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2013 - 09:39:00 AM »
The way I do it damage free is to loosen the T bar adjuster ,  the LCA pivot nut ,  drop the control arm down remove the strut rod nuts & T bar retainer clip  , & put a large pry bar between the K frame & LCA & pry everything backwards , some heat may loosen the grease . This will provide greater leverage on the t bar without marking it
 The T bars are junk if you have clamped pipe wrench or vice grips on to them Please do not reuse them , they can fail at any scar on the bar & drop the car unexpectedly stranding you anywhere or injuring you if you happen to be under the car

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t