Author Topic: Rebuild or not to Rebuild  (Read 2273 times)

Offline 1970A66D21

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Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« on: October 07, 2012 - 11:20:21 AM »
I had the 340 in my Challenger rebuilt in 1991 and put less than 1000 miles on it in the next 4 years.Sold the car in 1995.I believe the car sat undisturbed until 2011 when I bought it back.There was plenty of anti-freeze in the block.Took the vale covers off and the heads were still wet with oil.Took the oil pan and windage tray off,turned the crank.No rust and the cylinder wall cross-hatching looked like new.
The fuel system is new from front to back.
I will be buying an oil priming rod soon.Anything else I should do?




Offline vinb

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2012 - 11:29:32 AM »
Prime the engine , make sure the oil pressure is good and fire it up...

Sounds like you will be ok..

Offline CUDA JAS

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2012 - 09:20:54 AM »
Prime the engine , make sure the oil pressure is good and fire it up...

Sounds like you will be ok..

 :iagree:  especially if the fuel system is all new!! 

Oh and  :useless:
« Last Edit: October 13, 2012 - 09:24:48 AM by CUDA JAS »
74 'cuda 360/727



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Offline PlumCraZRT

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2012 - 05:21:20 PM »
:iagree:  especially if the fuel system is all new!! 

Oh and  :useless:

Obviously change the fluids (oil, coolant, etc).  Sounds like you know what you're doing.
mmmmm.... Mopar.... *drool*

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2012 - 03:57:06 PM »
If the rebuild was done right there is no reason to do it again , just make SUre you use an SJ- SL rated oil or Z-Alt Brad Penn or additive like comp cams with every oil change , SM SN rated oils will eat the cam .

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Offline 1970A66D21

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2012 - 07:23:40 PM »
Just looked at the Rotella T the auto parts store manager recommended..It is a SM oil.I will use it in my F350 instead(sorry,it is a Ford).The same store has Valvoline VR1.I do not care much about the cost.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2012 - 11:17:39 PM »
Rotella was one of the last oils to buckle to the new emission stds & go SM but yeah parts store guys are clueless . Sm oils have approx 1/2 the needed ZDDP content to keep the cam alive , SN are closer to 1/4 , I sold the Z alt oil  it was fantastic never lost one cam & a couple should have as we had ign problems keeping the car from running more than 2 mins so we could not get the cam broken in .

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Offline 1970A66D21

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2012 - 10:38:36 AM »
I was thinking about the choice of oils others have made.How many of us drive our E-Bodys more than enough miles  to require multiple oil changes in 1 year?The cost of a quart of oil with zinc makes an oil change about the same as taking the wife out for dinner once.I just won't tell her we missed one.No diesel oil for me.O Reillys has VR1.

Offline moparmaniac59

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #8 on: October 22, 2012 - 11:05:34 AM »
Not to steal the thread here, but on the subject of oils, how do you think ZM, ZN oils do on a hyd roller motor/cam set up? I use Rotella in my engine which has a hyd roller cam set up. I would think it would not be as much of a friction/wear factor with a roller type cam vice a flat tappet cam.  Should I ditch the Rotella and go to SJ-SL type oil?  :dunno:


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Matt

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2012 - 09:28:27 PM »
there is a lot to oils , not just the Zddp content either SM & SN oils are not designed for carbed engines you still get more fuel wash with carbs , efi atomizes better & delivers the right amount of fuel all the time  Diesel has different additives as well , just adding a Zddp additive will help but Rotella is really the wrong oil .

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Offline moparmaniac59

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #10 on: October 23, 2012 - 11:34:04 AM »
So Neil, what oil would you recommend for a hyd roller motor? I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic for all of my daily drivers, but I've heard heated debates over using synthetic oil for engines built for pro/street, racing applications with other than normal loads/torque. Some of the best "scientific" articles on the usage of synthetic oils I've found on the Joe Gibbs racing web site with such articles as "Zinc vs detergent" , "choosing the right viscosity" ect. There really is a big difference in applications for say a daily driver commuter car vs a pro/street hot rod or full out race car. So anybody out there have a good suggestions as far as brand/type such as Amsoil, Brad Penn, Mobil 1, Here's a link on the Joe Gibbs race site. There is a ton of good info on oils, their history of usage, types, applications, lubrication fundamentals ect. So I am still up in the air as far as the best motor oil for my application. http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.html


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Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #11 on: October 23, 2012 - 04:10:11 PM »
Matt,

 I use Amsoil. The good ole fashioned 10W-40. I know Sledgehammer likes Brad Penn.

Mike

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Offline moparmaniac59

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2012 - 05:03:45 PM »
I've heard good stuff about Brad Penn oils, & I think It may very well be my next choice!  :2thumbs:




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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Rebuild or not to Rebuild
« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2012 - 07:37:27 AM »
There is a lot of good specialty oils now , I was selling Z Alt which is excellent oil , Brad Penn , Gibbs etc all of these are formulated to to protect older gas engines , I would try to avoid a lot of iding time with any roller cam engine as there is no provision to oil the rollers other than splash feed off the crank

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t