Is that my rear main seal leaking?

[jimynick]

The trick my old man showed me involved a big and bigger hammer-seriously. Take a 3 or 4 lb mallet and put it behind the centre link at the spot the Morse tapers come through, then using the merely big 2 lb hammer, belt the centre link right at the spot the tapers go through and I mean, HIT it. It might take a couple of belts, but it usually pops them loose. Flip the nut for the tapers and you can put it on until it's flush with the stud end; that way you can hit the taper to help pop it without destroying the threads. Have fun! 

[Toastyyosty]

Thank you for adding the part about the seals... Most the time a hammer won't damage the seals unless you miss and hit the joint. I've never used the puller but I wouldn't think it'd be to harsh.

[351c4v71]

I managed to unlodge only one of the four ...whatchamacallit? Hitting the center link hard with a hammer at the junction of the bolts.
It's one towards the center of the bar that I managed to loosen out. , now I'm trying to get the one next to it free but it won't budge! 
Impossible to get the pan out without removing the center link.
I'm hoping to get this second one free and swing it all out of the way as Chryco said it would, without having to free the other 2 bolts on the other side.

sorry for the poor description, I blame it on me being french speaking and a rookie at mechanics.

See in blue box the only "bolt" I managed to free up so far.

[351c4v71]

Isn't that the best way to break your seal and end up with another problem...

[72cudamaan]

Isn't that the best way to break your seal and end up with another problem...

Yup!

[Cooter]

Look at this guy go!
Never mind, look at that oil pan! lol
Trev

And? Drag race oil pans have been made like that for years. Clearance is at a premium in smaller cars.

[351c4v71]

Finally managed to remove the link using this puller (see photo #1). However, be careful. When used it I had removed the nut completely so when the bolt snapped free, I'm not sure what happened but the socket from my wrench flew out right on my 8 year old's chin who was under the car with me looking at what daddy was doing. Left quite a bruise on him.
Now I see the seal retainer (see pic #2). Do I just unbolt the two bolts (hex key) to be able to change the seal gasket? Is the torque important when I put those bots back on?
Also, I'm changing the oil pan, I got the 2 gaskets with the windage tray. Is there a specific bolt order when bolting it back on? and is the torque important? I don't want that pan to leak no  more!!!

[351c4v71]

Finally got the seal kit in the mail today.
See picture. I thought the half rings would be soft but there's a metal wire inside. They're very sturdy.
And the two "paper" sticks are darn hard. Can'T bend them , they would break in half befoe bending.
So....I'm ready to install them.
I'll remove the 2 screws, then the plate, then the old seals. Then put the upper ring, then some Right stuff at the both ends of the second half ring so it seals good between both rings. The put right stuff on both sticks and put the plate back in place and bolt on.
Is that the right way to do it???

[72cudamaan]

Just a small dab on the ends of the crank seals. Throw out the long flat ones, install the retainer, then use the nozzle to pack the sides.
Just make sure you don't leave any air gaps while doing that and you'll be just fine.

[Chryco Psycho]

You will need to roll out the top 1/2 of the seal & carefully roll the new one in around the crank , make sure the lip on the seal points inward . I do not install the 1/2 seals flush with e the block , I leave them offset slightly . Personally I use the side seals & then pack the gap between the cap & block with sealer inside the crankcase to get the best seal possible , Right Stuff is too stiff to fill the gap if you leave the side seals out . I use a long small screwdriver to get sealer all the way up in the gaps inside the crankcase .

[351c4v71]

Thanks

[ragtopdodge]

After it's fixed, be sure you don't have any crankcase breather problems.

PCV is not clogged, no blow-by coming out of the dipstick.

Otherwise it'll just eventually leak again.