A couple of engine questions

[06Daytona]

I got my transmission back today for the 440 and decided to do a few things on the engine to get it ready to go in. I have a few questions before the engine can go in though.

I have studs in my heads for the exhaust, but the threads are stripped almost flat . They're 3/8 fine thread but I'm wondering if I can pull them and use header bolts, rethread them, or just get new ones and replace with fresh threads. And, is this something I can do myself or is it better to take the heads to a machine shop and have them do it? I don't know if they're press in or thread in.

Question 2. My number 3 and 4 plug wire boots are hitting my headers. Are there stubby plugs that I can get, or do I need to pick up a set of build yer own plug wires with all the different boot styles?
I have no idea who the headers are from, but they've been pre beaten to avoid power steering and everything. They came with the engine and have already been in a Challenger so I know they'll fit.

Question 3. Do I need the kickdown on the engine/trans if I have a stage 3 kit in the trans?

[72cudamaan]

You will get better clamping pressure with studs. The threads on the head side are coarse thread. You can try to change them.
It's not that difficult so if you're mechanically inclined you should be fine.  Stubby plugs work but the choices
are limited. If you can get the plug in your heat range it's worth a try.

[jimynick]

Thread 2 nuts on the studs and crank them together with 2 wrenchs, then using the inside nut, apply a wrench and they should come right out. If memory serves, I think a couple of the little buggers are wet, so get your new studs pre-thread sealed to put 'em right back in and obviously, make sure the engine is cool and the rad cap off. I believe Accel makes a shorty plug and there's probably others. You can also buy fireproof plug socks as well. As for the trans, I've no idea, but Terry (Transtacman, I believe) has forgotten more trans stuff than most will ever know. Good luck 

[06Daytona]

Thanks for all the advise. The engine being hot shouldn't be a problem since it's still on the stand I'll attempt to pull them tomorrow

[LAA66]

 Maybe spray a little Liquid Wrench on the base and let set overnight. Sometimes they can be frozen in place so a sharp tap here and there, even turning them in both directions helps free them. 

[Road_Runner]

I'll second the insulated wire socks recommendation.  On my 383 I could never keep the spark plug wires completely off the header tubes.

Later, Jim

[Chryco Psycho]

heat will help to loosen the studs , I would replace the studs , on the big blocks all the studs go into the water jacket so keeping header bolts sealed & tight is a pain . I would try re=threading the studs , if they hold well why change them .
 I f the stage 3 kit is full manual no kickdown is needed as ti will not shift automatically again .
 Bad headers are a nightmare , 2 customers cars had a header that the plug wire had to sit on the header , I could find now way to keep a wire on that plug for more than a week or two & had to replace it constantly , I even tried Hemi wires with the Ceramic 4" end on them & the end would still break down from the heat & short to ground .

[GranCuda1970]

I ran into this problem also those studs will chew up manifold fasteners and you need a High temp thread sealer as well on the threads. I would not torque them to manual specs you'll be lucky to get them to 15. I went through 2 sets and still am gonna watch them real close when I fire up the engine for water leaks.

[06Daytona]

I got 8 of the 12 studs looking good, but the last 4 are nasty. The threads are so far gone that I can't get a nut to tighten on them. I guess it's time for the vise grips. The front passenger side one came right out when I was cleaning up the threads. I bottomed out the die on the head and when I started backing it off the stud came with it. Unfortunately none of the other studs where that cooperative.