Connecting rods and traction bars, are they a good upgrade?

[Tonker1]

I'm looking to improve the way my '73 340 Challenger handles and I'm on a bit of a budget. Currently it has what looks like a fully stock front end with the sway bar and torsion bar as well. The rear leaf springs and shocks have definitely been replaced at some stage but it certainly wasn't any time recently! Other things to note,, the rear sway had to get pulled to make room for the discs and I'm soon going to have 8" rear wheels. As for improving body stiffness, I was thinking of installing some connecting rods and traction bars For the traction bars I'll use some CalTracs unless there is a better recommendation and the the connecting rods I'll either go for Hotchkis or have some welded up similar to Brad's http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=70951.15 (I'd do it myself but my skill with a welder isn't good enough for chassis work). In the future when I have more money I'll install a Hotchkis rear sway kit that won't conflict with the Wilwoods.

Does this sound like a good direction or would I better put my money elsewhere?

[brads70]

I would start with bigger torsion bars and quality shocks? Most people seem scared to put anything bigger than the 1" , but I have 1.120 and the ride is not harsh at all.   Then look at either Hotchkis or PST hollow sway bars?  Caltrac's are more of a drag racing thing, not a handling piece.

[HP2]

Start with bolt on CE subframe connectors. Strip the paint in the area around where they bolt in. Once bolted in, take it to a muffler shop and have them welded. Total cost, under $200.

Skip the caltracs, they do nothing for handling and are a drag race traction devise.

Several approach you can take for the rest of the suspension. You can buy a complete XV Level 1 kit for $2250, or you can buy one piece at a time from Firm Feel or Hotchkis.
1.0 or bigger t-bars, $350
1.125 or bigger front sway bar $250-$350
Bilstein or equivilent shocks, $400
heavy duty leaf springs ,$250
rear sway bar $250-$350
Tubular uper control arms for more caster $400
radail friendly alignment, $50

Totals up to $2150, but you can modify as budget allows.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would skip the Caltracs as they do nothing even when drag racing !

[Tonker1]

With traction bars being mainly for strip use and the Caltracs being reviewed as reasonably useless are good reasons to stay away and use my money more wisely! I guess I just got distracted by that fancy looking design that Caltrack has!

To help form some of my own opinions I read through a lot of articles online today and once you get through the pages of people trying to hawk off their own products there's some pretty good stuff.
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/08/21/hotchkis/
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/mopp_1210_stock_suspension_upgrades/viewall.html
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0701_1968_plymouth_gtx_suspension/viewall.html
http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/best-muscle-car-suspension-systems.aspx
I'm not so sure about the last link, but it's good to see different perspectives.


For now I'm thinking I'll get some subframe connectors because the chassis always needs more rigidity and probably some front and rear sway bars depending upon how wide I can open my wallet.
Is this a good entry point to improve the handling?
If a new/stronger front sway bar is installed with the old traction bars, will the car handle strangely? Just thinking about when a part that can take more strain is installed it puts more pressure on the surrounding parts