Author Topic: Rimblow Pad  (Read 1322 times)

Offline red74cuda

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Rimblow Pad
« on: December 10, 2012 - 03:26:10 PM »
I purchased this pad off ebay and am now restoring it.





The previous owner had broken the tabs off the outer ring that connect it to the backing plate. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to reconnect the two? The ring is plastic.

I also need to change the pad color to black. I am planning to use SEM Landeu black.




Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2012 - 03:44:12 PM »
First of all, I agree with your thinking in going with SEM landau black.

Can this all be glues together with J.B. Weld or something similar? The downside is you can't take it apart again.

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline red74cuda

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2012 - 03:58:02 PM »
I have never tried JB weld but I can give it a go. I am fine with it not coming apart. By the looks of how it came, it could not be taken apart originally. I think the plastic tabs from the ring went through the backing plate and were melted to connect the two. Maybe someone has a picture of an unmolested one?

Offline brads70

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2012 - 04:06:34 PM »
What about using a real ( stainless?) socket head cap screw and nut, and bolting it together?
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline red74cuda

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2012 - 05:41:52 PM »
Yes I did think about that but I am not talented enough to cut the fake ones off perfectly flat to replace them with real ones. You can see in the picture that one is stripped from someone trying to turn it out.

Offline red74cuda

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2012 - 08:13:57 AM »
It is all fixed up now, thanks for the help guys.



I used the glue method to attach the pieces


Offline spamtank

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2012 - 08:33:28 PM »
Wow, that turned out really nice.  Great job!   :2thumbs:
Rick, Manchester, NH
1970 SE 383 2V AT Challenger
1977 M882/W200 Power Wagon
2013 RT Plus 6M

Offline tommyg29

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2012 - 10:06:08 PM »
turned out real nice, but I would think a blue one would be VERY expensive. The black ones are expensive enough. I originally had a non-fish pad, and just paid $20 for a little repro "fish" from Dans cuda shop and pinned it to the pad. That fish is the coolest part.
Great job!!
72 Roadrunner 400-4 Auto-3.23 Gear-Black Cruiser
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Multiple SRT's, Rams, Dakotas, Caravans and Neons

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Offline red74cuda

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2012 - 12:09:13 AM »
Thanks!
These pads are a little rediculous. I have seen them for sale for over $500. That is why I wanted to buy one that needed a little TLC.

Offline plumbeeper

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Re: Rimblow Pad
« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2012 - 11:17:41 PM »
You done a great job, it turned out really nice. I wish I would have seen this post a little earlier so I could help you out. For anyone else wanting to do this, here are some tips.

SEM Landau black is perfect for changing the color of the rubber. Just be sure to clean the item well before painting it. The glue method will hold the cap together alright but may come loose if you try to remove the cap from the wheel. We have another method of assembling them that works the best and still allows you to disassemble it in the future if necessary. (Although I don't know why you would.) Drill a 3/16" diameter hole in the center of each fake Allen head being careful not to touch the sides, get 3 machine screws 8-32 X 3/8" long along with nuts, hex heads are best but you can use round ones and grind them flat and shape the sides of the head to be a hex head, paint them flat black and assemble.

Dave