Author Topic: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil  (Read 5686 times)

Offline cudabob496

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Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #15 on: February 23, 2013 - 05:37:24 PM »
What synthetic oil has zinc in it.  I've ready several threads that say even with regular oil only a few contain zinc any more.  So you have to add zinc.  Is that true for Synthetic?


All the major synthetic blends have zinc, phosphorus, and ZDDP.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000




Offline David Weber

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Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2013 - 01:30:19 AM »
The 1500 mile break-in is a good number for oil. We have gone less maybe 500 when using formulated break in oil from Royal Purple, Comp Cams or Joe Gibbs Racing oil. Just remember the rings need cylinder pressure to seat and the way to get cylinder pressure is WOT. I always get the question form people on how long before I start running engine hard. If engine is clearanced properly after a couple heat cycles it is ready for WOT. The worst thing for ring break-in is to light on engine load and keeping an engine rich during break-in.
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Offline sadil340

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Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2013 - 03:39:49 PM »
That clatter is due to no oil getting there for a few seconds.  Lotta wear goin on there.  Synthetic will flow there a lot quicker. Your rings should be broken in after 1500 miles. I'd go to synthetic.
Thanks for the input Bob will definitely switch next change..

The 1500 mile break-in is a good number for oil. We have gone less maybe 500 when using formulated break in oil from Royal Purple, Comp Cams or Joe Gibbs Racing oil. Just remember the rings need cylinder pressure to seat and the way to get cylinder pressure is WOT. I always get the question form people on how long before I start running engine hard. If engine is clearanced properly after a couple heat cycles it is ready for WOT. The worst thing for ring break-in is to light on engine load and keeping an engine rich during break-in.
I've always broken engines in hard and get lots of miles out of them with no oil consumption. One car I sold to a friend with 240,000, now has 300,000 with absolutely no oil consumption. And I beat the c*&p out of it since almost day one.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2013 - 03:41:48 PM by sadil340 »
1970 Cuda 340 4-speed
3:55 SureGrip
Owned since 1974
Bought from original owner

Offline RCCDrew

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0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2013 - 04:46:11 PM »
What's up with that Mobil 1 racing 0w50? Why is it not recommended for street use?

Offline cudabob496

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Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2013 - 07:59:10 PM »
What's up with that Mobil 1 racing 0w50? Why is it not recommended for street use?

I don't know, but 50wt is overkill for street, and can hurt power, by having your engine
pumping a thick oil like that. Its for race engines, which sit at 8000+ rpm for 5 hours. They
probably have different clearances, and other stuff.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2013 - 08:24:15 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 73restomod

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Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2013 - 08:35:56 PM »
0 weight oil is fine. The oil acts like a 0 weight oil when cold, as it heats up polymers inside the oil expand bringing the viscosity to that of a 30 weight oil. My wife's new Avenger recommends 0 or 5w 30, and it comes with a 100,000 mile warranty.

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Offline cudabob496

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Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #21 on: February 27, 2013 - 08:50:23 PM »
0 weight oil is fine. The oil acts like a 0 weight oil when cold, as it heats up polymers inside the oil expand bringing the viscosity to that of a 30 weight oil. My wife's new Avenger recommends 0 or 5w 30, and it comes with a 100,000 mile warranty.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Ya, quickly flows to the valve train at start up, to prevent wear. 90% of all engine wear occurs at startup.  My 496 is twelve years old,
and I've been beating on it regularly, but still running like new, and I think the synthetic oil, (along with superb driving skills), is a big factor!

Just realized something, I rarely have to adjust valve lash on my solid roller. May be due to synthetic preventing a lot of normal valve train wear!?
« Last Edit: February 27, 2013 - 09:01:41 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 73restomod

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Re: Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2013 - 01:20:19 AM »
Ya, quickly flows to the valve train at start up, to prevent wear. 90% of all engine wear occurs at startup.  My 496 is twelve years old,
and I've been beating on it regularly, but still running like new, and I think the synthetic oil, (along with superb driving skills), is a big factor!

Just realized something, I rarely have to adjust valve lash on my solid roller. May be due to synthetic preventing a lot of normal valve train wear!?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

My thought is the thinner oil is more effectively lubricating the needle bearings at all RPM's.

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Re: 0-30wt Synthetic Oil
« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2013 - 02:11:08 AM »
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

My thought is the thinner oil is more effectively lubricating the needle bearings at all RPM's.

Not sure, but I stopped checking lash yearly a long time ago, because maybe only one or
two valves needed very minor adjustments. Now I check every 2 years.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000