Replacing idler arm

[KillerBee]

I'm getting ready to replace the idler arm on my 71 R/T Challenger.

Do I need to jack the car up and let the suspension hang or can I do it on a 4 post drive on lift?

Thanks.

[burdar]

The idler arm is bolted to the K-member.  Jacking up the car does nothing .  You can get right to it on a drive on hoist. 

If the arm is original, don't toss it.  Someone might want an original.  You can install new bushings in the big end. 

[KillerBee]

It possibly could be an original, there are no grease fittings on it.

Should there be a part number on it?

Thanks.

[burdar]

Mine has a few numbers cast into it but I'm not sure if they mean anything.  If it doesn't have a zerk then it's probably original.  Why are you replacing it?  Is there slop somewhere?  Mine was still perfect so I just cleaned it up and reinstalled it.

[KillerBee]

I was under the car going through the front brakes(drums).

I felt a little free play when I grabbed the drum and rotated it back and forth moving the steering parts.

I discovered the  idler arm was moving up and down.

I know the original ones are rebuildable but I bought a brand new Moog off E-bay for $32.

I'll keep the original with all the other original parts I took off the car.

I need to get the car up on the lift anyway and install a fuel return line as I had it out the other day in humid high 80 degree weather and noticed a hint of vapor lock.

Should be an easy swap up on the lift.

Thanks.

[HP2]

You can buy a bearing kit to replace the bushings in the original arm. More positive than a bushing and eternally rebuildable.

http://www.firmfeel.com/idlerarmkit2_e.html