Problem with ignition. From stock to Pertronix Flamethrower

[Ornamental]

So I went from a bad stock electronic ignition to a Pertronix Flamethrower setup.

At first, before the Pertronix dizzy was installed,  I had some problems with the stock set.  Last year year I've been chasing gremlins, without coming to any definite conclusion, motor just decided to run fine, and that was the condition it was in when it was put to winter storage. Took it out of winter storage,  and then the motor ran really rough, and acceleration wasn't really an option. Had to take it away from the winter storage place, so it was driven for a while until a unrelated problem (with a wheel) came up.  Later it was started again to move the car so the other problem could be sorted. The engine ran for a while, then it died. Some investigation found a bad rotor, the piece of metal on top of the rotor that goes to the centre (coil) had broken off and jammed in the distributor. A new rotor was put in, and the piece of metal removed.
Still not firing. No spark in the plugs. Motor is getting fuel and air. I wonder if the ECU could be blown.


Decided to try the new Pertronix Flamethrower with an integrated electronic module that just came off the FedEx truck, Removed the old dizzy, made sure the rotor was on cylinder 1...  ....bloody 'ell!! As I type, I just realised we never made sure that cylinder 1 is on TDC!! Ok, that just might be it, but I might be wrong, and there's a few other things I'd like to ask while I'm on the subject of going from stock ignition to a Pertronix Flamethrower, since the manual were very general and mostly useless:
-The manual recommends removing the ballast resistor, should I? The manual is so generic, I don't trust it.

-The old ECU, do I just undo the plug and remove the ECU?

-The old dizzy had two wires for the reluctor, should I need to make a connection between the wires for the reluctor on the engine harness end?

[Ornamental]

Some googling later:

If you use the OEM ignition coil - YES use the ballast resistor (because otherwise you just might fry your coil).
If you use the Flamethrower coil, bypass the ballast resistor (always 12 volt to the coil).

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=39112

Currently got a stock coil, and the ballast resistor is in use. So far, so good.

[Rich G]

I put a Pertronix setup in my friends AAR. For some reason he bought 2 setups which was a good thing because  1 burnt up on the first road trip and the other one didn't last much longer either. Finally converted it to a factory Mopar electronic ign. and so far no problems. Had to hide the ECU under the dash to keep it looking stock. I don't know why they both went bad because its pretty simple to hook up. I did eliminate the ballast resistor like it said in the instructions. Maybe that wasn't a good idea.

[Chryco Psycho]

My experience with Pertronics has not been a good one either not a reliable product

[Ornamental]

Latest update: Measured voltage on coil with the ignition on, not while cranking, about 4'ish volts. Unplugged old ECU, measured about 10 volts on coil.
Then I decided to try to start again, and it fired right up. Ran like a bucket of rusty nails, so a bit of timing is required now.