Need some help/advise for disk brake /green bearing swap please.

[shadango]

So I jumped into the rear end swap and disk upgrade today. Started at 8am and went real well till I hit a problem and also have a few questions I hope you guys can help with.

First, I am missing a part.  Its a banjo bolt that has a bleeder in it....cant finish till I get one...anyone ever see one?  Or is this a specialty piece that came only with the SSBC kit?  The local parts storees dont have them. The guy that sold me the brake kit cant get into hos work (where he had the parts) to see if it is in another box til freaking TUESDAY.  So the car is DEAD til then.   



Next issue/question......I swapped in green bearings......I installed the brakes, caliper, rotor, wheel on one side.   When I grab the wheel top and bottom i am detecting some movement.  Seems like the bearing is moving in the bore to me....but it was tight when I installed it...had to tap it in a little......no movement between the wheel and the flange......Cass at Dr Diff did say that green bearings need a little looseness due to housings not being straight etc.    The guy who sold me the kit also used green bearings with clips and he said that he had no movement when he did his....Do I have something hosed?  The bearings felt tight by hand when the axle was out......the bore of the housing seems fine.  Nothing can ever go easy.

Next issue, when we were struggling with the chunk, a 489 tru trac, the thrust block fell out...I remember Cass saying "it does not have to come out if the disk brake kit is built right"......so I took that to mean that it could come out with no harm...seems like everyone on the web takes the thrust block/buttons out for green bearings, so I figured it should be fine....right?  I really do not want to pull the chunk again.....its just me and my 11 and 13 year old and it was a fun time....LOL  Please tell me that I can leave the thrust block out without harm with green bearings.

Finally, the instructions for this kit SUCK.  I spent a while figuring it out and ended up with this.......does this look right to y'all? Thanks for the feedback guys.  I have been working non stop all day and I am dead/beat.....so if anything doesnt make sense here, sorry...

[Chryco Psycho]

The banjo bolt / bleeder is a custon piece so I hope it is in the kit / box .
Which way do you feel movement in& out or up & down , it should be tight .
 I feel the green brgs will last longer with the thrust block in , tha axle can push against the tapered brgs but often the thrust block is too long with green brgs so no big deal to leave it out .
 The picture looks fine , not sure what you plan to do with the Emergency brake

[shadango]

Thanks CP.

The movement is when I rock the whole wheel in and out, grabbing the top and bottom of the tire...like when you would check a front end.  I have no movement in or out alone.....and no movemnet when I try to lift the tire from the bottom or push from the top.....just when "rocking" it.  Going to go over my install and hope I find a loose bolt or something.
***update:
No loose bolts and the left side is exactly the same.   Wondering if maybe there is a little movement in the tru-trac and that movement is what I am feeling, transmitted back to the wheel?  I was thinking maybe there was some movement in the chunk where the axle end inserts into the splines....but that wouldnt be right, right?

I yanked the wheel off and grabbed the flange itself and tried getting any movement and nothing....only with the added leverage of the wheel do I get anything.
*****

I did some snooping around the web this morning and found a few places (racing equipment and motorcycle) that have the banjo bolts with bleeder screws in them...just have to figure out what the heck size this is though....looks like $12-20 a piece.

Was thinking maybe if I could find the right size plain banjo bolt maybe I could bleed my brakes using the banjo fitting...of course that would make a huge mess so probably will wait till I get the right part......

The emergency brake mounting is just plain strange.  I can see where the bracket they provide "should" go, but assuming I have everything else in correct, the bracket cant go where it should.   I am going to post a new post with that specific question for folks who may have this kit....

[MTS-Challenger]

Yep, the thrust block needs to be removed. Fearless Gears here in Fresno advised me to do so if I was running Green bearings or bad things would happen after the rear end got up to temperature. They also thought Green Bearings was a bad idea because the bearing C-clip is the only thing holding the axle to the axle faceplate (I inspected my Greens a found these can also be one pieces with the flange as part of the bearing - photo). 

I plan to remove my Greens anyways and go back to Ma Mopar tapered bearings and thrust block for road course racing as the Greens probably won't handle the punishment I plan on.


FYI - The missing banjo fitting is custom made and need to be bought from SSBC direct.

[shadango]

Yep, the thrust block needs to be removed. Fearless Gears here in Fresno advised me to do so if I was running Green bearings or bad things would happen after the rear end got up to temperature. They also thought Green Bearings was a bad idea because the bearing C-clip is the only thing holding the axle to the axle faceplate (I inspected my Greens a found these can also be one pieces with the flange as part of the bearing - photo). 

I plan to remove my Greens anyways and go back to Ma Mopar tapered bearings and thrust block for road course racing as the Greens probably won't handle the punishment I plan on.


FYI - The missing banjo fitting is custom made and need to be bought from SSBC direct.

Thanks again..

Yeah, I saw a lot of debate everywhere on the web about green bearings.   

It DOES make a guy stop and think about the only thing holding that bearing in place is the circular ring (clip) and friction....but a lot of folks run them for the street and there seem to be more people with no problems than people with problems.....so I figured I would try them...mostly because I like the fact they are "sealed"......after chasing a leaky let side for a while , I am just tired of leaks...LOL

Meanwhile the right side has been fine, so I know that the tapered bearings are not by default leakers....

I have my old axles with the adjuster, etc so I can always go back.

The axles I swapped in this time had two adjusters.....and the guy who removed the old bearings said they had to be cut off.....but at least i have my originals so I can always switch back down the road.

I figured as much with the banjo fitting....I did find that type elsewhere but not sure of the sizing etc. so I emailed SSBC and will hope its as easy as buying one from them.

[Chryco Psycho]

Just thread a nut on the banjo bolt , go to a hardwarestore , you will fgure it out fast
 For road racing the adjuster is not ideal either , I was on the track for about 1/2 hr & I had an oil leak , pulled the tire to find out th elock tab ahd bent out of the way & the adjuster backed out , I would recommend using at least 3 lock tabs

[shadango]

They also thought Green Bearings was a bad idea because the bearing C-clip is the only thing holding the axle to the axle faceplate (I inspected my Greens a found these can also be one pieces with the flange as part of the bearing - photo). 

I was wondering this myself......

Initially i was a little confused about the plates people are calling "retainer plates" with the SSBC kits.   The kit instructions treat them like they are spacers, not retainers, that go on before the axle is slid in.  A web search resulted in one post to that effect.  Everyone else seems to use the plates as the new retainer and they toss the old (tapered bearing) cup style retainer with seal.

A guy who had the SSBC setup on his car when he removed it confirmed he used the plates as retainers, not spacers.

After seeing others' pictures of how they have their green bearings setup, including yours, it seems I am ok in that regard. My setup is pictured below...it goes in as you see it, no other spacers or anything......The cup style might actually hold the bearing in better should the clip fail.....but no one seems to use the stock retainer with the green bearings far as I can tell?

[MTS-Challenger]

Here are some pictures of what I had. My setup had used the supplied SSBC spacer plates.

So it was gasket, spacer plate, bearing (5249444 with retainer plate) and caliper hanger plate using the longer SSBC retainer bolts (grade #8) with a corner milled off to fit next to the axle tube.

I wonder if the spacer plate is used for extra length if still using the rear end thrust block. 


Thank you Chryco, I planned on using the Doc Diff billet end plates and per your suggestion will use a least two adjuster locks now (maybe even figure away to aircraft bale wire them in place).

[shadango]

Here are some pictures of what I had. My setup had used the supplied SSBC spacer plates.

So it was gasket, spacer plate, bearing (5249444 with retainer plate) and caliper hanger plate using the longer SSBC retainer bolts (grade #8) with a corner milled off to fit next to the axle tube.

I wonder if the spacer plate is used for extra length if still using the rear end thrust block. 


Thank you Chryco, I planned on using the Doc Diff billet end plates and per your suggestion will use a least two adjuster locks now (maybe even figure away to aircraft bale wire them in place).

Thanks !  Dr Diff said "the snap ring on the wheel bearing should mount 1/8" away from the housing end.  In other words, if the axle splines bottom out on the outside edge of the side gears, you should install something that measures 1/8" between the snap ring and the housing end."  I asked how I would know if they bottomed out, he said :  "If the splines bottom out, you would feel the bearing start to bind when you tighten the 5 hole retainer."

I dont feel any binding, so I guess I am good!

[Chryco Psycho]

Mitchell
The hook end of the lock tab bent out of the way & allowed the adjuster to loosen , I bet it would not have happened had I NOT cleaned the threads up on the adjuster & retainer plate  , I am glad I noticed the oil on the inside of the itre & did not go back out on the track as well not that it would have been a catastrophic failure biut the brg was riding out of position in the race , simple fix too .
Shandago
 Sounds like you are good to go , the axle should not bottom with the spacer block out anyway , the first time I used green brgs I tried to pull the axle in with the retainer plate , bent the plate but the axle would not go in any further .