Author Topic: Rust  (Read 5124 times)

Offline torredcuda

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Re: Rust
« Reply #15 on: April 15, 2013 - 07:38:05 AM »
Jeff
72 Barracuda 340/4spd  Torred
70 roadrunner 383/auto  In-Violet
70 Duster 360/auto drag car  (Petty Blue soon)
04 Ram 2500 5.7 Hemi




Offline clone it

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Re: Rust
« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2013 - 07:43:18 PM »
Some distributers in Canada-  :dunno:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=81900.0


Thanks torredcuda. I appreciate the information and will check them out.

Offline clone it

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Re: Rust
« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2013 - 09:50:57 PM »
Here is a of pic of my progress with a DA sander and 60 grit. I picked some of the worst spots and it looks to be turning out nicely. I tried to send more pics but it keeps telling me my pics are too big so here is one anyway.

Offline jimynick

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Re: Rust
« Reply #18 on: April 15, 2013 - 11:05:37 PM »
You're gettin' there laddie! Keep up the good work. You could try spraying some CLR on and see if it bites into the rust for you. Better yet would be muriatic acid, but be very careful, don't spray much at a time so it doesn't run into the car and wear ALL the protective gear. Wash off with water mixed with baking soda to neutralize the acid and dry it immediately. If you do it and it comes clean, you've got about a 1-2 hour window to coat the bare steel before it starts to re-rust.  :thumbsup:

Offline clone it

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Re: Rust
« Reply #19 on: April 15, 2013 - 11:38:54 PM »
You're gettin' there laddie! Keep up the good work. You could try spraying some CLR on and see if it bites into the rust for you. Better yet would be muriatic acid, but be very careful, don't spray much at a time so it doesn't run into the car and wear ALL the protective gear. Wash off with water mixed with baking soda to neutralize the acid and dry it immediately. If you do it and it comes clean, you've got about a 1-2 hour window to coat the bare steel before it starts to re-rust.  :thumbsup:

Yeah its comming along for sure. Good idea jimmynick I will try the CLR first and see how that works. Thanks!

Offline clone it

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Re: Rust
« Reply #20 on: June 23, 2013 - 10:00:04 PM »
So here is a pic of how nice the roof rust cleaned up. Just wondering what type of primer I should put on this? Thanks.

Offline torredcuda

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Re: Rust
« Reply #21 on: June 24, 2013 - 04:55:06 PM »
Before primer you need to treat the metal as there are millions of tiny pits (rust) that are still there and will eventually come back to ruin your paint job. I  am going to use Picklex on my road runner but there are other surface treatments around. Is the car being kept inside?  As far as primers go I use PPG epoxy which is a good base then a high build primer for block sanding.
Jeff
72 Barracuda 340/4spd  Torred
70 roadrunner 383/auto  In-Violet
70 Duster 360/auto drag car  (Petty Blue soon)
04 Ram 2500 5.7 Hemi

Offline clone it

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Re: Rust
« Reply #22 on: June 24, 2013 - 07:22:36 PM »
Before primer you need to treat the metal as there are millions of tiny pits (rust) that are still there and will eventually come back to ruin your paint job. I  am going to use Picklex on my road runner but there are other surface treatments around. Is the car being kept inside?  As far as primers go I use PPG epoxy which is a good base then a high build primer for block sanding.

Thanks for the advice Torredcuda. Yes, I do have it in my garage. I will check around and see if I can find some of that metal treatment before I primer it. Thanks Again.

Offline Topcat

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Re: Rust
« Reply #23 on: June 24, 2013 - 07:32:15 PM »
Picklex is a very good product. I used Crud Cutter I bought at ACE hardware. As long as it has phophate, it'll work.

You can use a spray squeeze bottle that does a heavy mist to avoid runs. For areas where rust was heaviest, I recommend a double dousing of the area. Make sure to wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Phophate is very harsh on skin. after you've let it sit and flash dry for 15-20 minutes, rinse with water.

As it dries, and you'll begin to see a white chalkiness form on the metal. Right before you're ready to Epoxy prime, take a 3M scuff pad and lightly scuff off any excess build up that was left from the phophate dried on.

Now your metal is squeeky clean ready for primer to make adhesion into the metal pores.

Here is a more a detailed info on the process. It gets a little scientific about it.

http://www.pfonline.com/articles/pretreatment-for-painting

And a thread doing it... http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2774
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline shawge

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Re: Rust
« Reply #24 on: June 25, 2013 - 02:49:33 AM »
+1 on using a phosphoric acid solution to get rid of the rust.  I used Pickelx and PPG epoxy as well.  If you use other primers, be sure it can go over acid washes - I know PPG/Omni and Kirker epoxies can, HOK DTM cannot.  The P-sheets will let you know.
- Jerry

Offline Topcat

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Re: Rust
« Reply #25 on: June 25, 2013 - 07:21:10 AM »
How mine came out and looks like after phosphate wash ready for epoxy.




Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline clone it

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Re: Rust
« Reply #26 on: June 25, 2013 - 11:12:09 PM »
How mine came out and looks like after phosphate wash ready for epoxy.







Thats awesome Top cat. Thanks very much for that very helpful information.

Offline moparcardave

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Re: Rust
« Reply #27 on: July 01, 2013 - 04:54:20 PM »
I have found Captain's Lee stripper not only removes the paint but also the rust and leaves a phosphate finish on the white metal that wil not rust for days.  Left it on my Texas fenders here for over a month, no rust starte and rust removed.
http://www.solutionsoft.com/products/captain-lees-stripper.html