Author Topic: Exhaust stud nuts for 440  (Read 1070 times)

Offline Chlngrcrzy

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Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« on: June 17, 2013 - 11:55:23 PM »
440 exhaust stud nuts. Anyone know where i can get these nuts  :bigsmile: ?  i can buy zinc plated at the hardware store that will fit, i am just not sure if a regular nut will work or do you use washers underneath?




Offline cudabob496

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2013 - 12:06:30 AM »
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/exhaust-manifold-hardware?keyword=exhaust%20studs


I'd sure go bolts over studs.

I bought some ARP bolts that have the 3/8 inch drive heads, so you can get around headers.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2013 - 12:23:42 AM »
I use the grade 8 cad plated nuts , washers are not a bad ideal .

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Chlngrcrzy

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2013 - 09:36:27 PM »
I got a set of the new bolts with my tti headers, but i dont think these studs are going to come out.  I tried one and all i did was round it off some. I am pretty much chicken at trying another one right now. A guy at work told me that he pulled some out of an old head one time by double nutting them and then welding the end over.  Right now i am thinking just using nuts, unless someone has a good idea.    :dunno:

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2013 - 12:38:27 AM »
if the studs are in decent shape I leave them in place & just use nuts on the headers , far easier than fighting leaks using the bolts & trying to keep everything tight .

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2013 - 07:11:44 PM »
seems I've tried about every sealant there is to keep header bolts from leaking, and the plumbers
white pipe sealant sure worked good.  Just let it sit for a day before you refill with water.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2013 - 08:40:25 PM »
I'd suggest leaving the studs in. If you have the room to move the header around it sure
makes it nice to just hang the gasket and header onto the studs. No more trying to hold the
header in position while putting a bolt in. But if you use the bolts instead, try using "The Green Stuff". It
is a high temp plumbing sealant like the liquid teflon. I have brazed next to this stuff and it still seals.   :2thumbs:
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline Chlngrcrzy

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2013 - 09:30:14 AM »
Thanks for all the response and help guys. I did decide to go with the studs. i found that the bolts supplied with the headers were a bit short and it was much easier to hang everything on the studs. 

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2013 - 09:37:51 AM »
sometimes you have to trim off a stud or two for clearance for the header tubes , make sure you put a nut on the stud BEFORE cutting it , it will help clean the treads as you remove the nut

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Chlngrcrzy

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Re: Exhaust stud nuts for 440
« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2013 - 10:56:07 AM »
I actually had the engine sitting out of the car on the k-member, so i loosened up the steering box  a bit and was able to stick the header right on. had plenty of clearance on the studs as i tightened down.