Author Topic: Frame rail issue  (Read 2285 times)

Offline 06Daytona

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Frame rail issue
« on: July 09, 2013 - 12:14:46 PM »
When I bought my car a few years ago the gap at the top was about 5/8ths and the bottom was about 1/8th. When I took the car to my sheet metal guy I took a copy of  the front frame dimensions that I got here and he measured and remeasured when putting on my new front inner fender. There was a gap at the inner fender to firewall of about 1/2 inch at the top and 1/8th at the bottom that my body guy and I both thought was just a repop issue. When it came time to put the fender on, the gap was still off but better than it was when I got the car, and I could see a visible downward slope from the door to the front of the car in the body line. It had been bondo'ed away with the old fenders
If we were to drill out the spot welds at the firewall/inner fender seam with the fender on would it be possible to get the line right without much effort? Kind of a stand on the rail and weld while someone watches the gap from the outside.

The left frame rail was replaced long before I got the car so it's not my fault it's like it is.
1972 Cuda 340 4 barrel 4 speed that looks like a 71
2006 Dodge Charger R/T Daytona
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4X4
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Convertible (Kidmobile)
1972 Dodge Charger 318 auto
1970 Challenger 440/727 auto
1973 Plymouth Duster 340/auto (Making it Panther Pink for the wife)
2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (It doesn't save gas, it just diverts it to the Cuda/Challenger)
In desperate need of more property for my growing Mopar family




Offline torredcuda

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Re: Frame rail issue
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2013 - 08:54:26 PM »
After you cut the spot welds maybe put a floor jack under the frame rail right at the front and the weight of the car might bow it down enough.
Jeff
72 Barracuda 340/4spd  Torred
70 roadrunner 383/auto  In-Violet
70 Duster 360/auto drag car  (Petty Blue soon)
04 Ram 2500 5.7 Hemi

Offline 06Daytona

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Re: Frame rail issue
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2013 - 08:57:42 PM »
That's what I was thinking but I didn't want to cause more problems. We planned on taking it to a frame straightener and then my brain started working on the idea.
1972 Cuda 340 4 barrel 4 speed that looks like a 71
2006 Dodge Charger R/T Daytona
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4X4
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Convertible (Kidmobile)
1972 Dodge Charger 318 auto
1970 Challenger 440/727 auto
1973 Plymouth Duster 340/auto (Making it Panther Pink for the wife)
2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (It doesn't save gas, it just diverts it to the Cuda/Challenger)
In desperate need of more property for my growing Mopar family

Offline jimynick

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Re: Frame rail issue
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2013 - 10:33:02 PM »
I'm confused. You mention that "the gap at the top is 5/8" and the bottom was 1/8". Of what? The fender/door gap? If that's what you're talking about, cutting the apron loose and standing on the end of the rail will only make it worse. Why would the bodyman install the apron cock-eyed like that- repop or not? You mention that someone replaced the rail before you got the car and I'd bet that there is where your misery is starting. If there's a decent frame facility you can find, get them to set up a datum line on your car and they can use that to reference the various control points of it. It'll show if the rail is too low at the front which is what it sounds like. Just my  :2cents:

Offline 06Daytona

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Re: Frame rail issue
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2013 - 06:59:38 AM »
The door/fender gap was out. I meant to say stand at the frame rail/firewall junction and add pressure to close the gap. Now that TS Chantal passed I can get out to see him and get the frame rail dealt with.
1972 Cuda 340 4 barrel 4 speed that looks like a 71
2006 Dodge Charger R/T Daytona
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4X4
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Convertible (Kidmobile)
1972 Dodge Charger 318 auto
1970 Challenger 440/727 auto
1973 Plymouth Duster 340/auto (Making it Panther Pink for the wife)
2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (It doesn't save gas, it just diverts it to the Cuda/Challenger)
In desperate need of more property for my growing Mopar family

Offline IMNCARN82

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Re: Frame rail issue
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2013 - 05:22:00 PM »
You may need the slot the front fender mounting holes it the upper rad. Brace forward/back a little. The factory holes only allow for side to side movement there. That way you might get a little more wiggle room. Descrepancies show up at the headlight bucket outter flanges.    :2cents:   R/T
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"

Offline jimynick

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Re: Frame rail issue
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2013 - 11:30:27 PM »
No offense, but when you try to cheat a fit problem away, it's like throwing a stone in a pool, the rings just spread out everywhere. Then, the hood gap is off and the length is wrong and then the bumper gaps are off... and so on. Fix it right and you'll never curse it again; 1/2 a$$ it and you'll learn to hate it. But that's just my  :2cents:

Offline IMNCARN82

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Re: Frame rail issue
« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2013 - 11:09:16 AM »
just trying to help.  guess i'll keep my mouth shut around here...
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"