Just completed my 71 Cuda, auto trans to Kiesler 5 speed (TKO 500), behind my 440.
Before I begin, LETS DONT TURN THIS POST INTO A FLAME THREAD. There are certianly some issues that I experienced that need to be improved, and Ill go over them. Ill also add hints that might help along the way should you go with this kit
History: I did the M-22 manual 4 speed to TKO 500 manual conversion back about 2006 in my 427/'68 Vette. I loved the quality of the parts, but the directions and tech line was not the best.
So moving to my current project: Going from auto to manual trans involves more work, but nothing a back yard mechanic with a basic tool set (except for one step), with a tool rental near by, cant do himself, with help form another along the way
1. Ordering the kit: Since I was a past customer, I saved about $250. Basically, free shipping. %50 down was required for the order: It took about 2 months to finally recieve the kit, but i was told that upfront, so no surprises there
Have your rear end ratio to give when ordering. This is important as you want all tranny gear ratios based upon how you want to drive
During the 2 month wait, I would ask for shipping updates: At times, it seemed like there was breakdown in commo internally to Kielser, but I did get the kit within 2 months
On arrival, it was packed securely and safe: Inventory was complete, and all parts, as with my order in 2006, are of the highest quality. Super strong cases, hardware, etc
I opted for NO console, just a boot on the floor (included)
For auto to manual conversion:
Loosen but dont remove headers (if equipped)
Remove rad fan guard/shroud
Drain radiator (if header bolts go into water jacket)
Remove drive shaft, auto trans and ALL shift linkages and trans mount (cross member) YOU WILL NOT USE YOUR OLD DRIVESHAFT or trannt cross member. New driveshaft will be shipped to you later (will explian later in this post)
1. Cutting out the floor for the new hump: Dont take shortcuts here: Take out ALL the seats, carpet, belts, kick panels, etc. You will have to get a new carpet anyways (auto to manual conversion, carpet not included in the kit). You need to take rear seat out as well as you will need all the room the lay down in when you install the pedals
Sawzall will easily cut out the floor (template included). Straight forward job, but it does get tight near the firewall, but it can be done
2. Installing pedals Complete kit is included, comes powder coated, good materials with new pads. Mine was absent upon initial shipping. I noted that, and it had to be back ordered. Agrravation factor here, I got it in about a week.
Installation of pedal kit: Removal of original brake pedal is tight, but not too bad. You WILL have to remove the fresh air duct housing (no ac on mine) that blocks the way. NO WAY you can get the new pedal kit installed with it in the way
Here is where instructions start to REALLY SUCK: They need pics. The written instructions make no real sense, and beleive it or not, it doesnt make sense looking at where it needs to go either. Calling the tech line, I finally got be bench static assembly pics, and it then made clear sense. That took a day to get the pics. Its a tight fit, but does go in, no mods needed : INSTALL the speedo cable now in the back of the speedo guage
2. Hyd clutch master cylinder. Once you get the pedals in, I would next install the hyd clutch master cylinder: You poke out the factory rubber that blocks out where the factory clutch push rod would have gone: Easy day. But since the firewall is so thin, you MUST use the bracket included that bolt onto the frame rail and to the cylinder housing. If you dont, the wall will flex, and it will cause the push rod to not insert/withdraw square inside the master cylinder bore, casing wear and failure Good pics/description for the installation here. Super quality parts here were included
Believe it or not, Para #2 above took the longest to complete out of the whole job: Not difficult, just time consuming. Be sure you get it right. Push rod to master cylinder bore alignment MUST be straight
3. Installing transmission: Use a tranny jack. It cost me $14 to rent one: It makes it SUPER easy to install
Keep the shipping plug in the tranny that comes in the tailshaft end. You want to fill the tranny before installation, and it will keep tranny fluid from leaking out of the tail end when installing. Remove it just prior to installing driveshaft
a. You MUST ensure the new bell housing will be EXACTLY centered over the pilot bearing. (New bearing included). If you dont, when the new mainshaft is seated into the pilot bearing and its not centered, it will wear on all bearings and cause failure. There are detailed pics on how to ensure that the new bell housing is dialed in/measured and centered. But you will need a dial gauge to measure run out. Measure and confirm you are in spec 3-4 times just to be sure. It only takes about 5 minutes to do it. If you still cant bring it to spec, new off set dowel pins for the housing will be shipped to you. Just call and tell them the offset you need. (Offsets are free if needed)
Mine came into spec with no offset needed
b. Hyd bearing (No "throwout type", bearings are needed or are included) You must check for full out and in play to ensure that you will not have too much or too less of clutch play. It only takes a second to measure, very easy. If you are out of spec, a simple spacer that takes about 2 minutes to install or take out is all thats required. Again, take no shortcuts here
c. Installation of tranny is easy, no issues, as well as the new cross member: Now install shifter base and arm. Bleed hyd master cylinder; NOTE: Regardless of what the instructions say, remove master cylinder cap, remove the rubber baffle. Bleed as in manual. Once you think you have all air removed, RAPIDLY push up and down on the clutch pedal about 30-40 times (Manual says DONT do this). This is the ONLY way you will truly bleed the lines: Thats right from their tech folks, they said do it, and it worked
Remember when I said remove the rad shroud: Heres why: There are spacers included in the kit that mount near the rear of the tranny. On mine, the rear of the tranny sat low, and caused the rad fan to hit the fan shroud, almost cracking it. Installing the included spacers aligned everything back up, no probs
Drive shaft. ASAP, follow the measurement guides taken from the tranny to the rear end pinion. Car MUST be on the ground . Then send that measurement to kiesler: They will then send you a new driveshaft and u joints (included in price). I didnt know I had to order a new driveshaft. I thought one could use the old one
. I got the new one in about 3 days after I sent in the measurements
Install included speedo op
Major points:
-TECH line should be quicker to respond to issues, both on email and telephone
-Revamp manual: Include LOTS of pics
-All parts are of the HIGHEST quality and very strong: That includes the original style pistol grip assembly, pedal kit, and all brackets and parts: Clutch, flywheel, bell housing, tranny case are of race quality
For just under 6K, the kit was WELL worth it
How it drives will be my next post
Topic: Installing Kiesler TKO 500 : Auto to manual 5 speed : Afterthoughts (Read 1429 times)
