Torsion bar and header clearance

[brads70]

I don't have any problems with the steering box or pitman arms. Just the t-bar to header. I'm going to try to loosen the k-frame and push it over towards the pass side. If it doesn't work, I think it would be way easier to dimple the header than machine the head. Does anybody have a tool to back the t-bar out now that I have hammered them most of the way in?

Try shimming the motor 1/8" on the opposite side that it's hitting the t-bar.

[73EStroker]

Are your headers ceramic coated? If so forget the rest of this message.

A way back my son put Hedman headers on his 73 440 Charger. They did the same with hitting the steering box. We simply clamped the header to head flange down on a steel welding bench, used a rosebud oxy torch and heated up the 4 pipes to red hot then bent the headers with the bottom closer to the oil pan. Fit like a glove after tat but they were not coated so it was easy.

[jordan]

I loosened the K-frame, but there was no room to move it.  The bolts were at the edge of the holes.  Bummer.  My headers are coated, so I was planning on just using a piece of round stock and beating it against the header where I have it marked.  I dont think it will be a big deal.  I just really need a way to get my fricking torsion bar back out without beating the crap out if it too.  Does anybody have a picture of a torsion bar removal tool?  Does a national chain auto store rent them?  Any home made ideas floating out there?  The t-bar was a tight fit at the rear mount and now I need to back it out of there, but have no leverage to pry it out.  I really need to know how to remove a new bar with out ruining it. 

     When I can get the torsion bars out, I can clearance the header, and move on with my project.  Like shocks, sway bars, brakes, and wheels.  You know, the fun stuff.  I really want to get this running before it snows!!!

       Thanks for all the advice guys. 

[72bluNblu]

Just use the LCA as a removal tool. You have to remove the shock, drop the LCA off the spindle and then remove the LCA pivot nut. With that done, you can use a dead blow mallet on the LCA and the T bar will come right out.

The torsion bar removal tools are ok, but using the LCA is much easier and less likely to mar the torsion bar. Plus, the torsion bar removal tools are not made for big diameter torsion bars. They should work on a 1" bar, but they're a no go for 1.12" bars.

[jordan]

Tonight I removed the LCA from the lower ball joint, removed the nut off of the control rod, and beat on the LCA against the torsion bar.  And wouldnt you know, it backed right out!!!  I then took a piece of 3/8 rod, and rounded the end and proceeded to start beating on my new expensive header until I dimpled it enough for the T-bar to fit.  I then drove the t-bar back into place, placed the seal, and retaining clip. 
I then started my AFCO adjustable shock install.  XV sent me a front shock upper bushing kit.  I quickly realized it didnt fit my AFCO shock, so I modified the bushing to a larger diameter hole and the retaining washers too.  I installed the shock and was proud of myself for a few moments.  I then started my clean up by throwing away my shock box, and noticed a AFCO shock specific bushing and washer kit.  So, after an hour of messing around, I removed the shock, and put in the correct bushings.  Why would XV send me a shock bushing kit if the shocks included one?  Tomorrow I will do the other side and use the correct parts.  I may even get the front sway bar in tomorrow too.  The rear end is getting dropped off for a rebuild tomorrow too. 
   
     Thanks everybody who gave me suggestions to work the torsion bars out and dimple the headers.  This project just keeps getting more and more complicated.  It is starting to feel custom car now.  Ill post some pictures soon when I get a little time.   Thanks     J