Author Topic: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question  (Read 1544 times)

Offline Recovering Cuda

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Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« on: January 14, 2014 - 08:40:39 AM »
Hello again fellows.   Well I removed, cleaned, sprayed and painted my heater box.  Got the kit from DMT and everything went well until I got to the the part of reinstalling the defrost/floor heat diverter door.  It is held to the actuator rod by way of a small clamp.  The problem is that I did not get a picture of this during dissembly and for the life of me I cannot get it in right.   Does anyone have a pic of the door correctly installed?  I have checked the forums but have not found a pic of this particular part installed.   

Any help would be greatly appreciated.




Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2014 - 02:07:29 PM »
Just did my non-A/C Heater box using DMT kit.  Finally, got it installed in the car 2 days ago.  Here's a few of photos.  Hope they help.  Let me know if you need more help.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline Recovering Cuda

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2014 - 06:23:06 PM »
Thanks for the reply Film.  It helps, but then it doesn't.  Here is the problem.....when I attach the door to the actuator then move the top of  the actuator by hand, as the control cable would, the door is not doing what it is supposed to do.  Let me see if I can explain this better.  When you push your cable control (the dash control) all the way to the right (to defrost) the door should block off the floor heat and divert the air from the fan up to the defrost duct.  I must be missing something here because when I attached the door I can't get it to be in the right position relative to the controls on the dash. Do you see what I mean?  When the heater is in the OFF position the door should close off both the floor heat and the defroster.  When the door is in the heat position it should close off the defroster duct. What position is the door supposed to be in for "Off?"  In your photo of the installed door the door looks like it would send heat between the floor and defrost.  See what I mean?  Again, I'm I missing something here?  Any suggestions very much appreciated.   

Offline anlauto

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2014 - 06:30:09 PM »
I'm certain you can only mount the door one way and the above picture is correct. Keep in mind the door doesn't shut off or direct air flow completely....this is 40 year old technology....if it gets the air going in the general direction.....that's good enough...
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Offline usraptr

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2014 - 09:46:40 PM »
CHECK THE ARCHIVE PICS.  I POSTED SOME PICS OF MINE WHEN I REBUILT IT.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline Recovering Cuda

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2014 - 08:17:13 AM »
Thanks Guys.  I didn't know for sure and wanted to confirm the position before I reinstalled the unit.  To me it just didn't look or work right and I knew it couldn't be that complicated but would hate to have to pull the box back out just to reset the door.   Many thanks for the pics.  I guess I was putting to much thinking into this.......LOL.   

PS . If it were not for this site I would continue to be a lost ball in high weeds!

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2014 - 01:24:31 PM »
I'm certain you can only mount the door one way and the above picture is correct. Keep in mind the door doesn't shut off or direct air flow completely....this is 40 year old technology....if it gets the air going in the general direction.....that's good enough...

Yes, the door installs into the box one way.  The "actuator" rod mounts to the door correctly with clamp in front, and screw in back.  The photo with the installed door is not my heater box, but rather a photo I found on Google when researching.  However, my door went in exactly the same as the photo.  I was confused as well (after my install) about how the door doesn't completely send the air to either the floor or the defroster, but figured it's just how it has to be because there really is no other way for the rod to mount to the door, and no other way for the assembled door to install into the box.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline elmoska

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2014 - 01:54:51 PM »
how did you manage to get the other flap out.?

 i think its the one for the floor
1974 challenger on its way..

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2014 - 02:25:02 PM »
how did you manage to get the other flap out.?

 i think its the one for the floor

When I did my heater box, I removed all the brackets by grinding/drilling out the rivets.  I believe you're referring to the fresh air flap/door.  Unless you are planning on NOT removing the brackets, the only way to get that door out is by bending the rod, then you'd have to reverse the bend after reinstallation.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline elmoska

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2014 - 09:23:16 PM »
thanks for the info. i think im gonna grind the rivets.

what kind did you put back so it look factory
1974 challenger on its way..

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2014 - 09:28:29 PM »
thanks for the info. i think im gonna grind the rivets.

what kind did you put back so it look factory

I did not use factory style rivets.  I just use standard pop-rivets.  I wasn't too concerned about it looking/being absolutely "factory".
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline anlauto

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Re: Non A/C Heater Box Diverter air door question
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2014 - 10:23:38 PM »
I did not use factory style rivets.  I just use standard pop-rivets.  I wasn't too concerned about it looking/being absolutely "factory".

To make it look "a little" bit better...I've filled the holes in regular rivets with a filler (GooP glue) then went over them with a chrome paint pen..

Looks pretty good :2cents:
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com