Author Topic: Test Stand Wiring Help  (Read 936 times)

Offline dpcd67

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Test Stand Wiring Help
« on: May 01, 2014 - 08:38:40 PM »
I know this has been addressed before but all the answers were too hard for me. I made a test stand to break in my 340 cam. What I need is the absolute minimum wiring directions to make this thing run for 20 minutes.  I don't need any permanent solutions as this will be a one time thing. I plan to use  mechanical temp and oil pressure gauges.  I will hot jump the starter.  What I need is how to hook up the wires from the  battery to the OEM type electronic dist (which has two wires), to coil and tach (12 volt tach); it is a 73 electronic ignition.  One question is do I need the resistor in the loop? I won't use an alternator.
Keep it basic and simple please. thanks.
1963 Dodge M37 (3)
1967 Dodge WM300 (2)
1971 Plymouth Duster
Bought new in '71; I wanted the Challenger but they were $2850; too much $ so I got the 318, 3 speed on the floor, Twister Duster for $2100.
1973 Plymouth Barracuda
I ain't done yet.




Offline cudabob496

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« Last Edit: May 01, 2014 - 09:34:12 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Test Stand Wiring Help
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2014 - 10:57:20 PM »
Yes you need the resister to drop voltage to the coil although if you have a spare coil it will survive 30 mins but may overheat it /
12v switched to the ign feed blue wire on the ECU , the ECU will power the dist & 12v to the coil if you want to use a resister  & tach

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline dpcd67

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Re: Test Stand Wiring Help
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2014 - 11:00:06 PM »
Thanks; I saw the corvette one; it has components that I do not understand. And my distributor has two leads coming off it.
Now, that is better; thanks; that is the simple explanation I was looking for. I do have an old coil but I have a resistor too.  I guess I will have to use my wiring harness as I was not considering all the terminals on the ecu.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2014 - 11:11:33 PM by dpcd67 »
1963 Dodge M37 (3)
1967 Dodge WM300 (2)
1971 Plymouth Duster
Bought new in '71; I wanted the Challenger but they were $2850; too much $ so I got the 318, 3 speed on the floor, Twister Duster for $2100.
1973 Plymouth Barracuda
I ain't done yet.

Offline dpcd67

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Re: Test Stand Wiring Help
« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2014 - 10:55:28 AM »
I found a good diagram of the circuit on page 8-40 of my dealer maintenance manual.  Now I need a plug for the ECU so I can make the wiring harness for this. Not as easy as a point distributor.
1963 Dodge M37 (3)
1967 Dodge WM300 (2)
1971 Plymouth Duster
Bought new in '71; I wanted the Challenger but they were $2850; too much $ so I got the 318, 3 speed on the floor, Twister Duster for $2100.
1973 Plymouth Barracuda
I ain't done yet.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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  • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
Re: Test Stand Wiring Help
« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2014 - 11:35:40 AM »
Any wrecker should have a 5 pin plug for the ECU , the 2 leads for the dist are connected to the ECU & must be in phase , reversing them will cause problems

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline dpcd67

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Re: Test Stand Wiring Help
« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2014 - 02:19:23 PM »
Good advice; thanks. I went ahead and ordered an ECU wiring harness; that will make things easier and it was only $25.
1963 Dodge M37 (3)
1967 Dodge WM300 (2)
1971 Plymouth Duster
Bought new in '71; I wanted the Challenger but they were $2850; too much $ so I got the 318, 3 speed on the floor, Twister Duster for $2100.
1973 Plymouth Barracuda
I ain't done yet.