Author Topic: Hurst Comp plus 2083 shifter - need opinions  (Read 3791 times)

Offline BB73Challenger

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Hurst Comp plus 2083 shifter - need opinions
« on: August 07, 2014 - 06:36:10 PM »
So all along I THINK I had a factory 4 speed, but now I know not so.
So my 833 has been trouble to shift lately, even missed a 2 to 3 shift on a run last time at the track due to difficulty.
Also, when in reverse, the shifter mech does NOT want to get into "neutral" after backing up.
I'm 99% sure I have no other "binding" in the shifter rods, and the car has shifted smoothly before.
I also have a good trans mount, as I have had "soggy" ones cause problems before.
I also tried shooting some white lithium into the "works" from the top, as it seems like a "sticking" in the mechanism more than anything.
When I get out of reverse it pretty much "snaps" when I do find neutral.
Soooo I figured I'm heading to the Nats on Saturday and was going to swing by Brewer's stand and bring my shifter and get their feelings on it.
To my surprise I pull the shifter and it's NOT a factory unit, but a Hurst Competition Plus 2083 shifter.
So, what to do?
Do I get a "proper" E-body mechanism?
Will fitment now be an issue? I know that's probably an impossible question without someone seeing what I really have.
The shift rods all look correct, but what do I know, I didn't even know what shifter I had.
I just was thinking of picking up a factory style that was rebuilt, but with the 2083 shifter that shoots that.
I wonder if they would have the rebuild components for this shifter.
ANY thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated, I'm looking to get my car back to shifting cleanly, that's my main objective over any "factory correctness" or looks.
Need to bang them gears!  :burnout:
Jeff from Cleveland, Ohio




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Hurst Comp plus 2083 shifter - need opinions
« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2014 - 07:36:39 PM »
I like the Comp + , it should have stops etc , to prevent overthrow .
 You say it will not come out of reverse & into N smoothly ...  first line up the shift levers without the rods attached then reconnect the rods one at a time making sure they are adjusted so the levers shift smoothly side to side through the gates , it should spring into neutral easily if everything is centered correctly .
 Second is it dirty ?  The spring loaded piece where the handle attaches has to be clean & lubed , I would disassemble the whole unit & lube everything , silicone grease / brake lube should work best .
 The factory shifter should have a slightly longer reverse lever , the 1-2 & 3-4 rods should be the same , reverse had 2 types the 70 which angles forward & the later J shaped one that angles back from the shifter drops down low & heads forward , but either will work , I like the 70 better as it tends to clear the exhaust cossovers better .
 try what you have before you spend a lot more $$ , the Comp + is an excellent shifter generally .
 There is also 2 different shift plates for the trans , the early ones have a ball detent interlock , the later lever style are generally not as good , you can tell from the outside if there is a shaft in the middle of the cover between the levers with an E clip on the end .
 I cannot learn much about the shifter you have Hurst lists a mopar shifter no details / out of stock part #3916790

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Offline BB73Challenger

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Re: Hurst Comp plus 2083 shifter - need opinions
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2014 - 08:28:14 PM »
Thanks again CP.
I will go that route.
The shifter is very nasty.
Also part of the fake out on the shifter is I
Can now clearly see the threads in the box for
The positive stops but some body took them out?

So I'll get it cleaned up in some solvent,
Pop her apart, finely clean & lube plates &
Parts, and start from scratch on neutral line
Up & shift rod adjustments.
I will also get a bolt & nut for the 2 stops.
Thanks again
Jeff from Cleveland, Ohio

Offline Locke

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Re: Hurst Comp plus 2083 shifter - need opinions
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2014 - 01:21:54 PM »
If you're going to go through the trouble of taking the shifter apart I would recommend you get the rebuild kit from Brewer's and change out the shims, springs, etc.  I recently took mine apart and the shims were very worn/scored from no lubrication, after the rebuild it shifted much better.  Also when you line-up the linkage positions by using a 1/4" dowel in the top of the shifter it's just a starting point, keep adjusting the rod ends until you like the feel.

Locke
Two (2) 71 Barracuda Convertibles

Offline BB73Challenger

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Re: Hurst Comp plus 2083 shifter - need opinions
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2014 - 05:34:22 PM »
You say it will not come out of reverse & into N smoothly ...  first line up the shift levers without the rods attached then reconnect the rods one at a time making sure they are adjusted so the levers shift smoothly side to side through the gates , it should spring into neutral easily if everything is centered correctly .
 Second is it dirty ?  The spring loaded piece where the handle attaches has to be clean & lubed , I would disassemble the whole unit & lube everything , silicone grease / brake lube should work best .


If you're going to go through the trouble of taking the shifter apart I would recommend you get the rebuild kit from Brewer's and change out the shims, springs, etc.  I recently took mine apart and the shims were very worn/scored from no lubrication, after the rebuild it shifted much better.  Also when you line-up the linkage positions by using a 1/4" dowel in the top of the shifter it's just a starting point, keep adjusting the rod ends until you like the feel.

Locke

As a follow up this worked great.
I was really having trouble in neutral and getting through the shifter gates.
I had not so long ago addressed the bushings on the ends of the shift rods and the retaining clips as well, so the install was pretty rigid.

I had the old shifter out, and began by soaking it in parts cleaner over the weekend.
I also had a chance to talk to the guys at Brewer's, and a good heads up is not to ignore the levers off the trans for gear selection either, as slop in there will cause grief too.
On Monday I started by getting the 1 end of the case off and getting the guts out.
Despite trying to "spray" some lube in while the shifter was in the car, that was a waste, and after seeing the assembly I see taking the unit apart has no substitution.
So with everything apart, I concentrated cleaning on the "spring mechanism" in the shifter unit with the "button" (looked like a big button for your jeans) that does the lever selection.
I opted NOT to buy anything, and try the free route. I also didn't take the springs out.
As another heads up, I also read that the springs can be a real pain, but an ache saver is close them in a vice, then using safety wire to keep them closed. Then you position them back in place and cut out the safety wire.
While cleaning the spring mechanism I could manipulate the "button" by hand and was seeing the "hang up" is was experiencing while the shifter was in the car.
So after more soaking and cleaning I greased up the hinge/moving parts in the mechanism and got it moving free.
I could spring it open by hand and it would retract all the way on it's own - It wouldn't when I started.
With the spring mech all cleaned and greased I concentrated on my other pieces.
I glass beaded the case, gave it a quick paint, glass beaded the shift levers and checked them for flatness and confirm a smooth surface.
Lastly the original shims were cleaned with a solvent and looked to be in pretty good shape.
I did have some minor scoring on top of the "button" of the spring mechanism in the shifter from what looked like a burr on the 3/4 shift lever that had been dragging over during shifts.
Again I just cleaned and burrs and lightly polished the scoring to smooth it out.
Re-greased all the internals and slapped it back together.
I brought the shifter home with a long 1/4" dowel I used to keep the shifter in neutral.
Bolted it in, stabbed in the 1/4" dowel, went 1 shift rod at a time making sure while in neutral the shift rod slid into the shift lever while not forcing it into location and double checked the rods/connections had no extra slop.
Started the car and now the shifter glides into each gear without any effort.
No problem getting into neutral, across the gates and just feels great.
Rain is on the way, so will have to wait for the test drive but just sitting in the seat is night and day.

Thanks again as usual all  :wave:
Jeff from Cleveland, Ohio

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Hurst Comp plus 2083 shifter - need opinions
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2014 - 05:40:44 PM »
These shifter are tough , very little wear or damage over years of service , cleaned & greased is usually all they need .
 I am glad it worked out  :burnout:

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