Car won't start after it's been running

[Chryco Psycho]

if you have the intake gasket with the steel insert I have cut a piece from the old gasket to fit the cross over holes & silicone it into place
Eddy RPM is great , Weiand stealth is OK

[ammo]

It is also possible that when you stop the carb 'boils' some fuel out of the bowls and into the manifold. Then when you give it a couple pumps of the gas pedal, you have toooo much fuel in there.

Agreed.  My edelbrock on my 340 does the same thing. Will crank all day when hot and not start.  If I take off the air cleaner off and push the choke plate closed a little bit it starts immediately with no gas pedal at all.  Choke adjustments didn't fix it though.  Figured out that when cranking when hot, after about 2 or 3 seconds of it cranking, push the gas pedal down maybe 1/10th of pedal travel and she starts perfectly.  If I mash the pedal down it will just flood and then you go get a Slurpee and sit around a while.  A "little" bit of throttle and my edelbrock is happy.  Tried Spacers and everything else you can think of before I figured out the 1/10th pedal fix.   

[cbrxxtreme]

Do your fuel filters stay full of fuel? You should only need 1 filter. If they drain out try replacing the pump. That was my problem with same start symptoms.

[Chryco Psycho]

Eddy RPM or air gap , Holley Street Dom , Weiand Stealth , all good intakes , even an Older Eddy LD340
 I have seen the carbs boil dry from heat while sitting so blocking the heat crossover or adding a phenolic spacer will help
Make sure the fuel pump is working 100% too low volume or pressure can make it hard to refill the carb .

[bobs73challenger]

Thank you all for your advice!

I'm currently swapping out the intake for a Eddy Performer RPM.  The gasket blocks the exhaust crossover, so we ought to be good there. 

I'll be removing the fuel filters and replumbing from the fuel pump to the carb with stainless lines.  Might as well replace the fuel pump while I'm there?

Although, this is admittedly turning into a bit more of "how far down the rabbit hole do I want to go".  While I've got the top end of the motor off, I'm thinking about heads...I'm currently looking at some 308 heads.  We'll see. 

Anyway, I think I'm making progress, and ought to be able to solve the problem...once I bolt the top end of my engine back together

Thank you everybody!  I love how much advice I've been able to get from you guys. 

[dfrazz]

Sounds like you are well on your way!

[Chryco Psycho]

I port my own heads but I made a 41 RWHP approx. 60 gross hp gain on the dyno switching to 308 heads from X heads
 I would just test the pump rather than replace it , new is not always better as they do not make 100,000s of these a year anymore & haven't for 20+ years

[bobs73challenger]

Chryco,

wow.  That's an impressive improvement. 

I admit, I've seen enough of your posts suggesting 308 heads that you got the gears moving in my head in the first place, but that's quite a gain just by switching to 308 heads!

DIY porting -- something you'd recommend for a novice?  I could probably find some scrap head from some other car at a boneyard somewhere to practice.  Is it the sort of thing that I'd be better off to just pay someone to do? 

I'd be taking them in to a shop to get cleaned and inspected anyway.  Is a port job expensive? 

Sorry, I'm starting to hijack my own thread.  This "replace a manifold" thing is getting a lot more involved.  The joys of being done with school

[Chryco Psycho]

You can do as much damage as good porting , removing the lip behind the valve seats is easy & matching the ports on the intake side is also easy to do just trace the gasket , on the intake port of the head & intake , shaping around the guide is more difficult , on the intake think wing shape curved on the leading side & knife edge the rear but also create a long side & a short side so the air on the long side will move faster enhancing swirl while narrowing the guide as much as possible , same with the guide on the exhaust side although swirl is not as important . Expect to pay $500 for port work & it may not work as well as I have a unique idea on porting , no one does what I do or gets the results ! You should be able to buy a Chinese Makita style die grander for $25 & a carbide burr for $25-30 , I like the the cutters with the square sides & a domed end 3/8" diameter , this will do square sides & the dome will cut back into the corners so you only have to buy 1 cutter . There used to pix of my port work on the site somewhere but they may have been deleted .

[Blasterb]

I had an old dodge dart in the early 80's that would act like that. Replaced the ballast resistor and the problem went away.