Hooker Header ?

[dpcd67]

Well, mine went in fairly easily (nothing is easy with headers); jack up the car; z bar is not installed but the fork is; starter removed and oil filter removed. 5115 headers will go in. Then install the clutch linkage, etc.  On my 340.

[HP2]

Without the clutch stuff in, I was surprised how easy the driver's side went in from the top. The passenger side was a bit more work. After cranking the nose of the up a couple of feet and still not having enough room form above, I had to grind a bit off a bell housing tab and put them in from the bottom. Once in, there seems to be plenty of room everywhere but with the clutch fork. Even lots of room for the oil filter.

Looking at my Z bar, it has an angle on it that looks like the engine is sitting about an inch too low. I might loosen the motor mounts and try lifting it to flatten out the z bar angle, then see how everything lines up. However, this may then lead to header mods as these had evacuation tubes welded to the top of the collectors when I got them. The are already tight against the floor and raising the engine may require these be cut and relocated or removed.

Nope, its never easy...

Also, I notice the adjustment bar has a large D shaped opening. The Z bar has a small round pin it sits on. These allows about .100 movement each way before bottoming. Is this correct?

[Chryco Psycho]

the D shaoped opening is correct , usually there is spring load on the rod so it cannot drop off even without the retainer clip

[HP2]

Yes, the clip keeps it all snug and I'm not worried about it falling off. It just looks like a mis-match of shapes that allows additional motion, albeit very slight, in engage/release directions.

sorry, for all the questions. this is my first mopar street car with a four gear.

[Chryco Psycho]

No problem , Glad to help you out after all the help you have given out in the suspension dept !!

[dpcd67]

Yes, the clutch pivot frame stud sits in a U shaped channel, as you know, but usually they like to be seated at the bottom of it.  Sounds like your problem is the evac tubes welded onto the top of your collectors are interfering with them.  Got a picture?

[HP2]

The evac tubes are not touching the floor in the current set up. However, if I space the engine up to level the Z bar, they may then hit the floor.  The evac tubes do not interfere with the clutch for at all. #5 tube is the offender here.

Here is a pic from under the car. This is with no Z bar and the fork installed and attempting to install the header. If you look at the top, you can see I've got about an 1.75" to go before the ports align. I'm thinking that maybe if I push the fork as far forward as I can, it may all slip into place. If that is the case and it all fits, then I'll play with the idea of removing the headers and relocating the evac tubes.

Personally, I'd prefer to raise the engine as much as possible to raise the overall height of the collectors relative to the ground. Even if that pushes the bell housing into the firewall weld seam. I think I will experiment with this after I confirm I can get the  fork in place. I may have to make some spacers to accomplish this.

[DocMel]

Remove the long front motor mount bolts (two) and jack the engine up.  It will give you plenty of more room for install.  removing the bolts takes about a minute,  just watch the fan to radiator shroud clearance as the front of the motor goes up

[HP2]

Okay, finally got the fork in when its pulled all the way forward.  It barely clears in this location, however, and I think I'm going to have trouble when the linkage is all attached and the clutch depressed.  With the free travel available now, it begins pushing the #5 tube as the fork is moved forward. By the time it contacts the fingers of the pressure plate, it has pushed the tube over about 1-1.5 inches over.

Granted, I do not have gaskets in place and have everything loose to check movement. I'm not sure if adding .125 of space at the port via the gasket will translate to 1.5" worth of space down by the collector.

Its kind of looking like some grinding work on the fork with some hammer work on the tube may be in order to get enough room for everything.

[HP2]

Finally resolved the issue.

Since I have a pile of used gaskets sitting around, I started stacking them up to create clearance. After 4 of them, or about .180 worth, I checked fork clearance and it was just enough. Running it with a stack of gaskets didn't sound too appealing to me, so I broke out the welder and ran about .125 thick worth of bead around each of the ports. Careful grinding and sanding to introduce an angle with the nominal side on the top of the port and  I now have clearance.

Add a new gasket and I'll be set.

Finally!

[Chryco Psycho]