The Weakest Link

[AMXguy]

Okay I've had my Challenger for a long time and I'm going to start driving it more. I don't intend to beat on it or abuse it but I'm tired of being afraid I'm going to break something if I drop the clutch.

It's a stock R/T SE  4 speed except for a 500hp  440 six pack in place of the 383.   I am in the process of installing a Strange Dana 60 and I put in an 11"  dual friction clutch and it has 255/60-15 rear tires.

I have  american made greasable U joints , I hear I should go to the non greasable ones because they are stronger?  do I need subframe connectors? drive shaft loops ?

I don't want to modify things more than I need to or be paranoid but I don't want to screw up a nice car either.   what is my weakest link?

[johns cuda shop]

I assume your building your car for the street.You can go wrong with frame connectors. Anything to stiffen up the body to make the suspension work . 

[dutch]

I`d say your 255`s are the weak link. As long as the tires burn up, you won`t break too much.  A loop comes to mind first since you will have a whole bunch of damage when the shaft starts flying around, but I doubt if you`ll need it. Driving on sticky slicks would be a different story

[AMXguy]

I was worried the 255's would be hard on things , they're twice what came as original tires.

The bolt in subframe connectors are worthless aren't they?   I kind of hate to start welding stuff in but  I can if I really need to.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would look at torque boxes , frame connectors , inner fender braces , rad support brace , extra welds on the k frame & engine mounts/ steering box mount , no downside to stiffening the chassis .
 Most street tires will not grip enough to tweak the chassis but slicks or drag radials could .

[bigblue73]

Of you are looking for the true weak link - It's still your u-joints.  They are designed at the weak weak link in the the system.  The next is the propeller shaft or drive shaft by axial twisting.  Sub frame connectors are always a good idea and they make quite a difference in how the car handles.  Good luck - Don't be afraid, if it breaks - fix it!

[AMXguy]

I have some American made greasable u joints now,   about the only good non greasable ones I can see are Lakewoods.   what is considered to be the best 7290 joints out there?

[bigblue73]

You are correct with your u-joints as being strong but consider this.  You have to engineer a failure point into the drive line period.  Something has to be sacrificial in terms of being fairly inexpensive to fix.   By strengthening one item may push that sacrificial breakage to your pinion or the output shaft or tail shaft of the transmission.  Either way, they will cost more to fix and will be more catastrophic in damage.  All out racing, you build it to survive and the car will yank the front end for 600 feet and you accept the failure where ever the part is.

[HP_Cuda]

You will be spinning the tires and hence not much damage can occur.

When you build the same car to hookup then you will start trashing the A833, the rear end, u-joints, driveshaft, subframe, etc.

B

[bigblue73]

Agreed!  LOL

[dodj]

I would look at torque boxes , frame connectors , inner fender braces , rad support brace , extra welds on the k frame & engine mounts/ steering box mount , no downside to stiffening the chassis .
 Most street tires will not grip enough to tweak the chassis but slicks or drag radials could .

They are invisible and won't 'screw up' your car. Resale value to guy/girl that wants a factory original RT/SE would be hurt though. On the other hand, to a guy like me, it would be worth more.

[solarguy]

Good blow out proof motor mounts, especially if the engine compartment is nicely detailed.