ShelbyDogg's 72 Cuda

[ShelbyDogg]

I'm working on getting my cheap 5.7 together and buying parts to get it running on my run stand.
I have it on my engine stand right now, flipped over, pan off so I can decide on pulling the crank to drill the end for a bushing or just deepen it.

The Manifold assembly that I bought was missing the Oil Filler top. I didn't see it in the pic since I'm new to G3s. The guy refunded me half because he is a Mopar guy too. I can try to patch it or use it for mock-up. Still have the spare TBI, rails and injectors. I found another one for $75 shipped.


I'm converting my drive-by-wire throttle body to a manual cable driven one.
I found these on Ebay; A splined short shaft and and a 5/16 splined arm, used for dual carb linkages. Also bought a cable end for my longer gas pedal cable.







This shaft gets welded on to the end with rapid cooling involved. There are some plastic components on this shaft.



Drilled a hole to accept the shaft. I'll have to put a lip seal inside the cover to keep water and dirt out, since my Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is inside.
I might shorten the shaft before final welding. I still have to fab a cable bracket on the manifold to position everything.



The motor is still inside but just going along for the ride. The same plug is used but only for the 3 pins for the TPS signal. I need to find a plug in case I build my own Ignition and EFI, instead of using the Megasquirt system above. That MS3 still seems to be the cheapeast and best system to use.



Stay tuned.

[ShelbyDogg]

Found a pic from 05.

[ShelbyDogg]

I got my G3 Hemi running today on the stand.
This is what was needed so far to get it setup like mine.
A running 04 to 08 Hemi with a car cover or preferably out of a car. The exhaust manifolds I show are from an 07 Chrysler 300.

Modify the Throttle Body, like I show in the posts above.
The Milodon conversion pan #31000, around $255. I cut an original truck pickup down and welded it to fit the new sump.
The 45 degree oil filter adapter, used $45.
Used an oil filter for 10 Challenger 3.5 V6 with this adapter.
Conversion Flywheel from Mcleod, new shipped price was $300.
Dodge Stratus A/C compressor, junk yard with a 1yr warranty, $39, Had to make a mount to attch it to the block at 3 points. Factory Compressor did not fit the TTI, E-body conversion mounts.
MSD 6013 to control the timing and fire the coils. USED $450, came with wiring harness, but for new coils.
Bought a set of new style used coils on Facebook swap page. $??
Bought a set of NEW plastic valve covers to mount the NEW style used coils. Ebay $?
EZ-EFI control unit $189 Ebay.
EZ-EFI handheld, $59 Ebay.
Bought a used engine harness to chop off the injector plugs and TBI plug, to use on my EZ-EFI harness. Facebook $??
The rest of the EZ-Harness I made up from an older Holley 950 EFI harness so that I can test with the Commander 950 ECU if I choose to.
Sensors for the EZ are common AIT, CLT, MAP from 90s GM cars in junk yards. O2 is from an 05 Nissan Altima 2.5.
Fuel pump off of a 89-92 E150 ford van, Usually mounted to the frame under the driver's seat, in the junk yards.
I'm using a K-frame from a 74 E-body with the factory power steering box. I had to remove some of the driver's side PS Box/motor mount pedestal to fit the A/C compressor. (not much)

If I remember anything else, I'll add it later.

MY setup and first startup is on my YouTube channel here:

https://youtu.be/I8n8rqEwIsc

[ShelbyDogg]

Added a new video to my youtube channel:

https://youtu.be/PGTUsXTuNa4

Showing my cable to pedal setup and new wiring harness. Ready to paint then install in the Cuda.

[ShelbyDogg]

Decided to hurry up and put my Hemi in and drive it before 2017. Had it at least 13 years and haven't driven it besides on and off of a trailer.

This was a $200 318 that I used to start and move the car around. I used it to mount all the needed brackets for A/C, pulleys, PS and Alt.







Pulled out the 318.





Painted the engine compartment with Rustoleum Black with newspaper to mask. Yes, I know that I'm cheap.....But Rustoleum is a Urethane Enamel.




Ran the wiring for my EZ-EFI and MSD 6013 ECUs.





Installed the $300 Conversion Flywheel from Mcleod. This is needed for the 8 bolt crankshaft.




Installed my used Zoom 10.95" Scalloped Clutch and new 11" clutch disk. I never throw away old 10.95 pressure plates.




Using the 08 Chrysler 300 exhaust manifolds, that came with the engine, the flange mounting bolt was hitting the frame at this "ear"
I cut off the ear and welded up the seam to close it off. Probably about 3" of welding.





Dropped the Hemi in and hooked up all the wiring, hoses and belts.





I bought 2 flanges to mate up to the exhaust manifolds from Rockauto.com for $6.50 each. Took the car and flanges to a Custom muffler shop.
They charged me $120 to hook the manifolds to my existing dual exhaust with rear tips. Beats the $750. TTI headers.





These seats came out of a convertible PT Cruiser at the junk yard. Paid $17 each. The Driver's side has a motor to raise and lower it. the front-back adjustment is manual.
I cut off some of it's mounting hardware then welded or bolted one of the mounts from the old seats.
These seats recline all the way and the passenger side tilts forward to allow rear seat access. Comfortable just like my new Challenger seats!



Was trying to enter a drag race at the track. Even installed a suregrip and 4:10 gears.

My rear tire, using the same 8" Rallye wheels and 275/60-15 tires, both used on my Challengers, were rubbing the Cuda's driver's side fender. So I just put it in the show.
The little switch on the shifter goes to my line lock and the 2-step rev limiter built into the MSD 6013. Spring loaded switch that my little finger can hold or release.



Tilt Column, pistol grip, A/C and confy seats! Oh yeah!. The Stereo and hemi are just frosting on the cake.




Here it is on display next to Jeff's '74 with a 5.7 truck hemi (71340RT)

[ShelbyDogg]

Had my rear Windows 5%tinted and my side windows 20%. Have to vinyl wrap the stainless and door handles before its finished. The side markers get spray tinted.




After having my Rallye cluster break off the speedometer needle after having working speedometers for years, I decided to disconnect the cables and just use my GPS or old Cell phone with a speedo app. The Speedo bearings start binding, the needle starts bouncing a little, then breaks off.
I decided to put an electronic speedometer in. Jegs had a 10% off sale, so I got this for $112. The sending units are found in junk yards screwed into older mopar transmissions for next to nothing. The speedo counts pulses and you calibrate it for distance.



In this cluster, I already modified it for my voltmeter so I cut the rear portion to accept the gauge.

I kept cutting till it fit right behind the lense.








After driving it a few days, I'm not used to not being able to pop my trunk or lock and unlock my doors with a remote, so I'm testing the new alarm and programming it's functions and setting up my door relays to lock and unlock the door actuators and energize the trunk actuator.



After wiring all day, everything is now installed. It is the same 2-way alarm that my other 2 cars use so each remote can control each car. The remote vibrates and beeps if the car alarm is triggered. It alerts me if I'm inside a hotel room and somebody tampers with the car.

[ShelbyDogg]

Quick update since I put in the Hemi last June.

Changed out my float to a plastic float to have a working gas gauge. My pickup was several years old but developed a pinhole where the alm clips on. The web shows that the ethanol gas absorbs water then becomes corrosive to metals like brass.


I used the Chrysler 300 PS pump to hook to the stock steering box. Some swap users swear that the higher pressure will blow out the box seals so I lowered the pressure by removing 1 coil off of the pressure relief spring in the pump. So far so good, PS seems like it did with the old pump. For the Pressure hose, you can hook it up 2 ways. Use a stock power steering hose for a FEDERAL pump. The thread size is so close to the 18mm pump thread, that it screws in and tightened up without leaks. This is what I used and I don't have any leaks. The hose number is below.

The second better solution would be to buy this conversion fitting on Ebay, then your factory 71-74 saginaw pump hose will screw in after a little bending.Less than $20.



My EZ-EFI is self tuning. It has to self learn and modify it's starting fuel map during steady stated driving. I noticed when I accellerate fast that the Hemi revs so fast due to my 4:10 gears and 80mm throttle body that is goes lean and can't stay to learn because I see my gauge lean and let off.

I have a Megasquirt 1 ver3pcb or a Holley commander 950 ECU that I can install. With both I can modify the fuel tables with a laptop before I drive around then allow them to self tune. I'm also able to log data files as I drive. The EZ-EFI can't log files.






Before I change the computer, I want to make sure that my EFI pump, lines, filter and injectors are not having any problems keeping up with the Hemi so I bought a new EFI Spectra tank with an internal Walbro pump. Tank was $254 at RockAuto but $350 and up all over the web and Ebay. This is a pic of the inside of the CR8EFI tank's sump. It has 2 small holes at the bottom to let the fuel in. the sump holds the fuel in it while sloshing around. The pickup also has a 3/8" pickup and 5/16" return line. It comes with a plastic float. I'm going to replace the tank and go forward, start a new tune, then take it for a long drive.



I have a new color screen on my EZ-EFI. It gives me a couple of extra settings, one being cold enrichment. Just another adjustment for idle before it warms up to 140 degrees. I had to send the ECU into FAST for a free Fw UPDATE. Found the new screen online for $150.



Really want the EZ to work but I want to be able to just smash the throttle to the floor and light it up with minimal tuning. I hope going through the fuel system fixes it.