six pack options

[Jack440]

As a guy out here in "fly over country" that is a little disconnected from constant information sources I have to ask what options are out there for keeping a six pack set up.  I hear that the ones Holley was reintroducing had problems and it appears that they produce the centers that look like they belong on "71 automatic cars.  I am looking for an R-4375 center 1970 4 speed and am finding a couple questionable tired looking carbs out there for significant $$$ needing rebuild and that is if the internals are not shot.  My question is: what are people in the hobby doing to keep running vintage six packs on their "V" code cars?

[anlauto]

Scott Smith Harms does excellent restoration work on six pack carbs.

[tommyg29]

Well, if you dont mind a long read, this is a link to my thread. Lots of pics, and several pages in I determined I needed to rebuild mine and documented everything I went through. If I had to do it all over again I could have rebuilt them myself in a weekend and had them running again by sunday afternoon.
But, thats only if you have replacement parts available, the right kit, etc. I ended up purchasing some used units and swapped out the best of all the parts and put together a reasonable running six pack. Today I took it out and it ran GREAT.
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=97471.0
Proud of myself actually. 
No matter what you do though, if you want to keep them, you will be spending some money.
If you decide to buy the "new" version from Holley, I have read and received lots of experienced advice that they will still need a going through to get them to work close to right, but if you dont mind spending the money this option would be easier for you.
If you dont want to tackle the problem yourself, as stated above there are several experienced rebuilders out there you can send them to. I WOULDNT let just any good mechanic tackle the job, but tuning the setup for your car may be something that might be done locally if the guy has done it before. Its taken me a LOT of trial and error to dial them in "close enough"
Good luck whatever you decide.

[DocMel]

Ive dealt with almost all of the Holley based OEM and OEM replacement Six packs, Tri -powers (GM speak), on both 340/440 and 427's, dated form 68-71.

WHat I have found out when it comes to the Holley replacement setups, is that the metering plates are not correct for the best running performance.  Yes, they will run out of the box, but they are not set up like they were form back in the day form the factory:  What makes his worse is that Holley has lost their technical savvy when t comes to these setups.  They just dont really have anyone on on thier tech side that has the historical knowledge to get them right

Thats where your reputable six pack rebuilders/restorers come in.   They can get the original carbs right by rebuilding them right, with the right parts.  These type of guys know that even the Holley rebuild kits available do not have the correct parts in them for six pack setups.  And some of these guys can take the new/OEM Six Pack replacements, and get them right

Then there are the throttle linkage setups/adjustments.  I would conservatively  say that 90% of the throttle linkages I have seen are not adjusted correctly.  Close, but not right:  And on the spot linkage adjustment is really key for optimal base performance out of these setups

And everytime the linkages are removed for any reason, (like removing a carb or two) they need to be adjusted again

2 Options

1. Try to find a used/OEM setup, and then have it rebuilt/restored by guys that know thier stuff.  VERY expensive option

2. New, Holley six pack set ups:  The new six packs from holley will run out of the box, and you could just run as is, or send the carbs to the folks that know their stuff to get them right (Maybe $300-$400)

Back in the day, because your average gear head didn't know how the sixes really worked, would convert the outboards to mechanical linkage openings and over the years, would just let the carbs go to hell, really because most average wrench folks just didn't know how to work with/on them

Most of your track racers used large 4 barrels instead of six pack setups.   One reason was that they took too long to set up at the track when removed for quick work, as compared to a 4 barrel. Also it was easier to diagnose an issue with a 4 barrel than a six pack, essentially being three carbs (even though the outboards only came into play when vacuum demanded their use)

3,

[Jack440]

Excellent advice.  Thank you for the information. I got through page 6 on your thread Tommy.  It appears that your carbs are a little more "molested" than mine. I did learn a couple of things through the read.  One thing is you do not give up.  Good work
Doc, that is good advice and confirmed some thinking that I had.  I have  two of these cars.  One is running quite well after finding another R4375 several months ago for $$$ that needed .008 milled off the throttle body to remove most of the pitting.  I had my doubts when I got the package in the mail, but cleaned it up, had the milling done, blew it out, replaced gaskets, float, hard parts that I matched exactly as found, (I am sure it had all the original components) and it runs very well, In my opinion anyway. The other car has the engine on a run stand and the carb I replaced from the first car I mentioned is on that engine now.  The right idle adjustment screw has no effect on idle and it just does not run well, but runs ok with the first carb mentioned above.  I clearly see my options now.  It really does boil down to the knowledge, understanding, and correct parts that reside with a few accomplished hobbyists out there. Thanks again for the good advice. 

                                                                                                           Jack

[AMXguy]

In your case if you're trying to stay all original I can see why you want to save your original carb.

But if you just want to make it run I'd go new. I spent my first 25 years hating Holley carbs until I realized it was because I always had a worn out screwed up one.   after setting up 3 mopars now with new Holley  Six Packs  I didn't know what I was missing.    a little jetting and maybe a change on the vacuum springs and a few turns with a screw driver and forget it.

[Jack440]

I was trying to stay original but operational is most important.  I will continue to gather the good advice of others here.  The 2300s seem simple enough in of themselves, few parts and pretty straight forward.  I have heard that modern crappy fuel with all the additives don't help.

[734406pk]

 Yes the new fuel is crappy. It contains ethanol that binds with water vapor and makes an acid that will corrode carburetors. I would recommend using Stabil Marine Formula for ethanol regularly. It contains 4 times the corrosion inhibitors as the regular Stabil and will prevent carb corrosion. I use it on my six pack set up and everything else. It does work. Once you get your carbs dialed in you will want to keep it that way.

[Jack440]

Stabil Marine Formula.  I will make note of that.  Here in Montana there are places that advertise ethanol free premium.  That is what I use along with octane booster.  I actually have an ever dwindling supply of real tetraethel lead additive as well.  This has been a very informative thread for me.  Now I understand what the ethanol does and why it corrodes.

[AMXguy]

I use half ethanlol free super and half AV 100LL with some marvel mystery.  so far so good and it runs great.

[Jack440]

Sounds like an interesting cocktail.  I do have access to 100LL through a friend so will keep that in my list as well.