Author Topic: Mig Welding Wire and Type  (Read 4314 times)

Offline glovemeister

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Re: Mig Welding Wire and Type
« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2014 - 08:49:24 PM »
Sorry about the noob thing, I misread the post. I think Eastwoaod has some copper backing plates for MIG welding body panels. The magnetic ones are nice when you can't reach inside a door or fender. Good luck with the '71 ! :cheers:

No problem on that at all. As far as sheet metal on a 71 Challenger I am a noob at that. Am guessing most of the stuff I have learned is the same lol.

This is like welding x1000 since doing a good job is so important given the car.

Will post up pics as I get rolling. Sure I will be needing more assistance from the pros.
1971 Challenger RT




Offline 734406pk

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Re: Mig Welding Wire and Type
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2014 - 09:16:22 PM »
Maybe get any fender from the junk yard to practice on first?
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline rhamson

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Re: Mig Welding Wire and Type
« Reply #17 on: December 17, 2014 - 09:05:15 AM »
In my experience of welding sheet metal, MIG has been the preferred method. If you're burning thru, a copper plate and/or machine adjustment will correct this. .023 solid wire with a -6 silicon rating will give the weld puddle more fluid wet out and less grinding. Buy yourself a auto body welding handbook and study up on the process. When you're ready to buy a MIG welder, I would go with a professional unit like a Miller 180 amp with Autoset. Also I have found running the machine on 240 volts gave much better results. TIG is good, but it takes a lot of skill to do at least 3 things at the same time: maintain arc length, control the amperage and probably add filler rod while trying to see. Not easy. Auto darkening helmet is a major plus. Any welding process on sheet metal will cause warpage. A good handbook will show how to minimize the effect. Good luck!
Good advice and has been my experience also. I have a cheap Hobart 185 220V and it can handle just about everything I throw at it in my body work applications.

Offline OUTLAW

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Re: Mig Welding Wire and Type
« Reply #18 on: December 17, 2014 - 12:21:25 PM »
I had a Miller tig unit and sold it cuz it was just too damn difficult.(I wanted to put my car together not learn another vocation) I went back to my mig unit with .030 wire and used stargon gas with it and it worked great. Those copper backer  bars help but can be a pain to get a good contact with the panels.Also like someone earlier said get a 220v unit if possible if not get the highest amp 110v unit

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Mig Welding Wire and Type
« Reply #19 on: December 17, 2014 - 10:03:07 PM »
I had a Miller tig unit and sold it cuz it was just too damn difficult.(I wanted to put my car together not learn another vocation) I went back to my mig unit with .030 wire and used stargon gas with it and it worked great. Those copper backer  bars help but can be a pain to get a good contact with the panels.Also like someone earlier said get a 220v unit if possible if not get the highest amp 110v unit
Good advice outlaw! Stargon cs works smooth, also C25 (75% argon and 25% C02). I try to use what the wire manufacturer recommends for best results.
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive