Author Topic: need to vent...no oil on dipstick  (Read 2248 times)

Offline djais1801

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need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« on: May 05, 2015 - 09:04:47 PM »
So, I picked up this 2007 Lexus GS350 about 2 weeks ago.  sidenote: on my way home from dealer the low oil level light flashed 2x, checked it when home and it was about 1qt low.  I knew it needed rear brakes going into it, so while my mechanic had it, I changed the oil just for a fresh start.

My wife tells me today the engine oil level light came on 7x on her way home.  Car is not running loud or rough.

Checked the stick and it was dry...I put 2qts in it, and nothing is registering on the dipstick...bringing to my mechanic tomorrow. Not looking good...

There is no oil on the driveway, no smoke coming from the exhaust...she's driven it about 1500 miles.

Bought her with 104k on it, of course as is...and signed about 5 copies stating as-is (should've been a clue).  A friend of mine was the sales guy, said it was owned by someone that works there who traded in for a new Audi.




Offline 4Cruizn

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2015 - 09:17:50 PM »
So where did the oil go?   :clueless:  Typically it burns or leaks out?  :dunno:

Offline djais1801

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2015 - 09:58:55 PM »
I can't imagine its burning or as dealerships like to say "using" that much oil in 1500 miles


So where did the oil go?   :clueless:  Typically it burns or leaks out?  :dunno:

Offline 4Cruizn

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2015 - 10:34:14 PM »
Typically if there was a crack or something, the antifreeze mixes with the oil, not the other way around? Oil doesn't usually vanish . . . .

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2015 - 11:00:31 PM »
Broken oil ring?? Although this is not a common issue. Had that problem on a truck I had. Now that I think about it, there are problems with older corrollas/prizms an stuck rings. And there was an additive to loosen them up. Lexus nothing but a bigger buck Toyota.   :dunno: Still not a common issue that I'm aware of.....  :clueless:
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Offline 734406pk

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2015 - 11:21:55 PM »
Take a compression test and/or a cylinder leakage test so you can tell if the ring seal and valves are ok. After that check the PVC valve to see if it's closing etc. I assume the correct oil weight is being used. These engines usually  go 200k  plus. Something is wrong here.
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Offline CHL2T

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2015 - 12:05:29 AM »
When we bough my daughter an 04 Cadillas DTS, the owner said it was using three to four quarts of oil between oil changes. Doing some research, I found what is known as the "WOT procedure" or wid open throttle. Doing this eliminated the problem. Keep in mind the only sign other than the oil level, was a small amount in the exhaust tips.

Basically it's
1. get on the freeway with the car in second gear.
2. From 40 miles per hour, floor the pedal up to 70+ and let off, letting the engine slow you back down to 40
3. Do it up to four times and then once, once a month thereafter

This comes from a designer of the northstar engine and basically what it does is frees up the gummed up and stuck oil rings which causes excess oil consumption.

Probably not your problem but hey as a high performance aluminum it could be.....

Offline djais1801

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2015 - 07:17:24 AM »
thanks guys...will keep you posted

Offline OUTLAW

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Re: need to vent...no oil on dipstick
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2015 - 09:24:12 AM »
That is the procedure we use to initially breakin a rebuilt motor before returning it to the customer. We do this with a cold motor about 4 to 5 times, never had a problem with a motor using oil after that .


Also back in the early 70's I had a chrysler rep tell us that to break in a motor for racing to start with a cold motor and go wot and shift at 3k rpm then let cool off and do it again at 4000 rpm let cool off and repeat the procedure at 5k - cool then 6k - cool and 7k cool and it is ready to go racing. I have used this procedure on every race motor we build without a problem.