Author Topic: Happy New Shoes, So Updating Steering Parts for Alignment - Then Sh!t Hits Fan  (Read 3931 times)

Offline 73_Cuda_4_Me

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First off, let me say a big THANK YOU to all the members here that help other members sort stuff out! This forum and its members are FANTASTIC.

With all the thread recommendations for tires, rims, suspension goodies, steering goodies etc... I elected (well, was forced actually) to replace the Uniroyal Tiger Paws on the 73. I went with 225-70-R14's on all four corners, on factory 14-inch Rallye Rims with trim rings and large center caps. The Tiger Paws were radials, but I was getting ply separation on 3 out of 4 of them, making the Cuda shimmy at expressway speed. Long story short, I set out to get steering components ordered and installed so that a proper alignment could be done.

I ordered Upper/Lower Ball Joints, Offset Bushing Kits, Tie Rods and adjusting sleeves (all Moog) from Summit. Got them late last week, so decided to start installing stuff today.

1st Oops - I've been spraying the bolts with penetrating fluid for 2 weeks now, but when I tried to loosen left TB adjuster screw, it snapped off flush with threadnut! (Car in jack stands, front end fully unloaded before trying.) Figured I could put jack under lower arm, raise up to remove UCA, and let back down slowly, to take all TB tension off... not enough, though.

Any ideas on how to release tension enough to slide broken bolt and threadnut out from under TB???

Also, UCA ball joint was loose in socket. Got everything apart, and this is what I found...

Plan is to thread Moog UBJ into upper arm, and weld it in place... won't torque tight without slipping, but can get it sitting flush with UCA threaded boss... Thoughts???
1973 Plymouth Cuda BS23H3B567783

R11 V6X EN2
M21 M25 M31 M88 N41 N42
V1X U B41 C56 G37 J54
JY9 A6X9 0 703 501616
E55 D34 BS23 H3B 567783




Offline brads70

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They make new upper control arms now.... or if your really on a budget... weld this in.
 http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aaf-all56250
As for the broken TB adjuster... I'd put the car up high on jack stands , put a jack under the lower control arm take the bolts out of the lower ball joint to LCA, loosen the lca nut on the pin to k-frame  then slowly lower it in a controlled manner.  :2cents:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline 73_Cuda_4_Me

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Thanks for this, Brad...

??- So does the adapter weld in, and the UCA need t be machined to allow the O.D. of the adapter to slip in to proper height?   :clueless:

Regarding LCA TB adjuster, I had car on stands, used jack to raise LCA enough to disconnect UCA, then let the LCA all the way down, with pivot pin nut loosened. There was still tension on the TB adjuster screw, and I couldn't pry up the arm enough to release the bolt and threadnut from the saddle it sits in...

The ride height was good - 24 1/4 inches to fender lip from floor through centerline of wheel. Passenger side was 24 3/8 on right front side. Both back fender lips are at 25 inches with stock springs. Even with 14's, the tires fill the wheel wells pretty well, and it has a slight 'rake' to it like the good old days...

Really, if I don't have to adjust the ride height, I 'could' leave it in as it is, and worry about it 'next time'....

I'll see if I can get some pix of the new Cuda's Cooper Cobras
1973 Plymouth Cuda BS23H3B567783

R11 V6X EN2
M21 M25 M31 M88 N41 N42
V1X U B41 C56 G37 J54
JY9 A6X9 0 703 501616
E55 D34 BS23 H3B 567783

Offline brads70

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Thanks for this, Brad...

??- So does the adapter weld in, and the UCA need t be machined to allow the O.D. of the adapter to slip in to proper height?   :clueless:

Regarding LCA TB adjuster, I had car on stands, used jack to raise LCA enough to disconnect UCA, then let the LCA all the way down, with pivot pin nut loosened. There was still tension on the TB adjuster screw, and I couldn't pry up the arm enough to release the bolt and threadnut from the saddle it sits in...

The ride height was good - 24 1/4 inches to fender lip from floor through centerline of wheel. Passenger side was 24 3/8 on right front side. Both back fender lips are at 25 inches with stock springs. Even with 14's, the tires fill the wheel wells pretty well, and it has a slight 'rake' to it like the good old days...

Really, if I don't have to adjust the ride height, I 'could' leave it in as it is, and worry about it 'next time'....

I'll see if I can get some pix of the new Cuda's Cooper Cobras

The best solution would be new arms but.. yes you would need to grind out/cut out the hole big enough to weld in this ring. I found it  helps to use a simple tailpipe/muffler expander in the ring to keep it from distorting.  The down and dirty method would be to weld in a ball joint?
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline jimynick

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I think Brad's ways would be the best, but, you could also take a drift or chisel and working your way around the UBJ hole, gradually work the walls of that socket back in a wee bit, enough to give you some bite if you don't get carried away torquing it. Once in and connected, the joint itself would have to tear apart for it to come loose. Personally, I'd put a spot of mig on it and  then throw the whole assembly in the scrap can the next time the UBJ need replacing and replace it with a new/used arm in good nick. Good luck.  :cheers:

Offline 73_Cuda_4_Me

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Thanks, Brad and Jimynick!

I'll start saving up for some QA1's... being retired and on fixed income, I guess I'll just run some 7018 across the flats once it's snugged in, put it back together, and drive it the rest of the summer... What a bummer (not)...

 :working:

If someone has any idea how to release the TB tension on the adjuster, I'd sure appreciate it! I'd like to at least put a new bolt and threadnut in to be able to adjust it if needed...
1973 Plymouth Cuda BS23H3B567783

R11 V6X EN2
M21 M25 M31 M88 N41 N42
V1X U B41 C56 G37 J54
JY9 A6X9 0 703 501616
E55 D34 BS23 H3B 567783

Offline jimynick

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Shy of torching the nut/stub out, I think Brad's told you the way out. Support the lca and unbolt the ball joint and then lower the jack and allow the arm to come down far enough to take the tension off. You could drill the broken off adjuster bolt and then heat the nut yellow hot and try a stud remover on the bolt, but you've got to be quick and handy and a second person there to help/hold stuff is a nice thing. Good luck.

Offline 1 Wild R/T

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The fact your ready to burn some 7018 means you might have a torch....  Melt the adjuster bolt... As it turns cherry red the bolt will collapse releasing the tension on the torsion bar... Then burn the anchor in half, both pieces will fall out & your ready to put a new adjuster in place..
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline 73_Cuda_4_Me

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Friend of mine has welder, so maybe I'll pick up a 12-pack and go visit to see about a torch...   :cheers:
1973 Plymouth Cuda BS23H3B567783

R11 V6X EN2
M21 M25 M31 M88 N41 N42
V1X U B41 C56 G37 J54
JY9 A6X9 0 703 501616
E55 D34 BS23 H3B 567783

Offline 73_Cuda_4_Me

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  • Posts: 423
See what you all think...
1973 Plymouth Cuda BS23H3B567783

R11 V6X EN2
M21 M25 M31 M88 N41 N42
V1X U B41 C56 G37 J54
JY9 A6X9 0 703 501616
E55 D34 BS23 H3B 567783

Offline brads70

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NICE! :2thumbs:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline jimynick

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Looks good!  :thumbsup: