Author Topic: Front end alignment (Read 4634 times)

7212Mopar · « **on:** December 05, 2013 - 03:45:04 PM »

I am at the planning stage of rebuilding my front end suspension and will upgrade the upper control arms, not sure about the torsion bars yet. This will be my first attempt and car will be just for the street. It drives ok now but rubber boots at the ball joints were torn and won't hold grease anymore. I might upgrade the steering box to Borgeson as well if funds allow.

The question I have is if anyone knows and can recommend a reliable alignment shop that can do classic Mopar suspension alignment around the San Francisco Bay Area? I am not sure a regular alignment shop still knows how to do a classic Mopar. I don't want to get stuck after I put it back together and no where to go.

Thanks

brads70 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 05, 2013 - 07:11:02 PM »

Do it in your driveway. It's not hard. You can get it close enough to drive to a alignment with a tape measure. I did? Save your money and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. It's just nuts and bolts!

LEMOOREACE · « **Reply #2 on:** December 05, 2013 - 08:36:08 PM »

Quote from: 7212Mopar on December 05, 2013 - 03:45:04 PM

I am at the planning stage of rebuilding my front end suspension and will upgrade the upper control arms, not sure about the torsion bars yet. This will be my first attempt and car will be just for the street. It drives ok now but rubber boots at the ball joints were torn and won't hold grease anymore. I might upgrade the steering box to Borgeson as well if funds allow.

The question I have is if anyone knows and can recommend a reliable alignment shop that can do classic Mopar suspension alignment around the San Francisco Bay Area? I am not sure a regular alignment shop still knows how to do a classic Mopar. I don't want to get stuck after I put it back together and no where to go.

Thanks

I took mine to Big O Tires in Dublin CA.

They took my "desired specs" and got them as close as can be. Drives nice and straight and I have aftermarket A Arms & Adj strut rods up front. They were recomended to me and did a great job, no hassles.

FY1Cuda · « **Reply #3 on:** December 05, 2013 - 08:37:23 PM »

Our Cuda's never been to an alignment shop. Like Brad said, we got it close in the driveway. We held a couple of straight 2X2's against the tires so they were sticking out in front of the car, and then we measured to see if they were parallel. Did a few other things, but that's gist of it. Chryco has posted the caster, camber, toe-in specs a few times. If he doesn't chime in, you can search the posts. (BTW, Big O in Dublin did our Honda van and did a good job)

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #4 on:** December 05, 2013 - 08:50:29 PM »

I have used a digital level & mearsuring tape for years generally you can do a better job than a alignment shop will
Max the caster fornt adjuster all the way out rear all the way in , adjust back until you get about 1/2* of - camber set the toe in at 1/16 - 1/8 " & you are done

7212Mopar · « **Reply #5 on:** December 06, 2013 - 02:10:23 AM »

Thank You all. You guys make it sound easy. I will do some more readings first. If I don't think I am up to it, I will talk to a Big O near me. Worst case I can drive to Dublin, only an hour from me.

LEMOOREACE · « **Reply #6 on:** December 06, 2013 - 09:56:20 AM »

I took mine to a couple places and all refused to attempt at getting my preferred settings. They would only do what machine told them to do (factory settings).

Big-O took it on with no question asked... with a "no problem" response.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #7 on:** December 06, 2013 - 10:27:26 PM »

You will have to get the alignment close on your own if you are going to drive 1 hr away or you will distroy the tires

LEMOOREACE · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2013 - 02:46:13 AM »

I also did an eyeball job in the garage myself to protect the tires. Bought four aluminum type For Sale signs from OSH and sandwiched them together with grease. Then lowered the front wheels onto them. Allowed the wheels to move as I did my garage alignment. Then I took it to Big O to dial it in.

walkAbout · « **Reply #9 on:** August 19, 2015 - 03:56:45 PM »

Hi peeps,

perfect topic to continue. My passenger side UCA adjusting bolts got loose and I had a lot of negative camber. Moved them back to the outside and tightened them to get to an alignment shop.
Corrected the height at first, then we could set the camber with the 2 UCA adjusting bolts, but NOT THE CASTER. I've read in the original Challenger repair book and IIRC first set the height, then the caster, then the camber, then toe-in.

Yesterday I've searched the net for pics with the long holes in the UCA bracket. Both are horizontally long holes. I have thought one of it will be vertically to set the caster, hmm. Here many times I've found this (thanks CP):

Quote

Chryco Psycho: Max the caster front adjuster all the way out rear all the way in , adjust back until you get about 1/2* of - camber set the toe in at 1/16 - 1/8 " & you are done

Many readings about max positive caster, mine did not change and differs on both sides, as we gave up after 2 hours or more. Camber and toe-in is fine. Driver side caster is ~6� and passenger side ~1�. Specs are around 3�.

Can someone explain, how to set both adjusting bolts to get both (camber/caster) correct? Next time I start with CP's advice and then? Is is just try or first the front bolt then the rear? If the bolts are loosened to much, the the car gets down from the weight and camber goes max negative.

Or just leave the car with the different caster? To be honest, I have not yet a real idea how the different casters behaves and what it is good for. Camber and toe-in is clear and really important from my point of view.

Thanks for enlighten me.

P.S. Car is lowered with hotchkis suspension. Pics if needed, no problem.

CU
walkAbout

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #10 on:** August 19, 2015 - 11:31:07 PM »

Caster puts the weight behind the center of the wheel & keeps the steering centered .
I always adjust the front adjuster all the way outward first & the rear all the way inward second , this should have the camber close & max the caster , you may have to tweak the adjustment bolts a little to get the camber perfect so a little more inward at the front increases - camber & a little outward at the rear decreases - camber . overall you should be very close with the camber with the front all the way outward & the rear all the way inward unless the upper or lower control arm is bent or the upper mount is bent or you have K frame damage

Bullitt- · « **Reply #11 on:** August 20, 2015 - 09:43:42 AM »

If there are issues that otherwise cannot be resolved you may benefit from the Moog Problem Solver Bushings
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=90855.msg899162#msg899162

walkAbout · « **Reply #12 on:** August 20, 2015 - 04:28:57 PM »

Many thanks for your answers/advice. I have to try. 2 years ago when I completely redid the front end I already put those http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mog-k7103/ Moog UCA bushings in. I think I will lift the car and turn the 2 bolts per side like advised when loosened the nuts. I think it's harder to turn everything when the car is on ground and puts all the weight on those bolts. But I know I cannot lift it, when setting up everything.

I want to know now and try setting up again, otherwise something other is wrong. You all know that our e-bodies have had times, when they where treated hard.

CU
walkAbout

Author Topic: Front end alignment (Read 4634 times)

7212Mopar

Front end alignment

brads70

Re: Front end alignment

LEMOOREACE

Re: Front end alignment

FY1Cuda

Re: Front end alignment

Chryco Psycho

Re: Front end alignment

7212Mopar

Re: Front end alignment

LEMOOREACE

Re: Front end alignment

Chryco Psycho

Re: Front end alignment

LEMOOREACE

Re: Front end alignment

walkAbout

Re: Front end alignment

Chryco Psycho

Re: Front end alignment

Bullitt-

Re: Front end alignment

walkAbout

Re: Front end alignment