Author Topic: Cost to Build  (Read 12310 times)

Offline djw383

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #30 on: September 10, 2015 - 06:15:02 PM »
When does it become protouring? When the frame and rear suspension are changed?

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Offline anlauto

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #31 on: September 10, 2015 - 06:19:58 PM »
When does it become protouring? When the frame and rear suspension are changed?

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That's how I think of it...

"Resto-mod" retains factory style suspension and engine...bigger sway bars, brakes, wheels, etc..
"Protouring" has major changes like front /rear suspension, new style drivetrain, crazy custom interior etc...
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
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Offline 70chall440

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #32 on: September 11, 2015 - 01:11:08 PM »
Like all definitions and terms, it is in the mind of the person as to what it means. That said "pro touring" generally reflects a focus on handling, braking and reliability whereas a restomod is more of an overall package retaining the original essence of the car with "some" modifications. As stated, it could be as simple as wheels and tires or it could be a complete overall/change of the suspension, drive train etc. In my mind the 2 terms overlap in the center, meaning there are cars which are definitely pro touring and cars that are definitely restomod, but there are lots that are both. Its a hobby and not constrained by terms, rules, etc. This is one of the reason that many move away from "restored" because there are rules, guidelines, etc in that world that some take way too seriously (IMO).

In short and for the new comer I would offer this; if your passion is keeping the car stock looking but with some improvements, probably more restomod. If your passion is performance, reliability, handling and braking but want some of the original flavor because you really like the body design/model then it is probably more pro touring. Doesn't mean you cannot have some or a lot of both and still call it by whatever term/type/name you feel is appropriate.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline dave73chally

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #33 on: September 15, 2015 - 10:33:05 AM »
Here's something interesting I've been thinking about. Say you're building a "restomod" and you want to keep it on the road aslong as possible. Understood it's better to take it all apart but say you want to keep on driving and enjoying.

In what order would you start your upgrades? Assuming you're working on a bugdet...
73 Challenger
512 / 4spd / Hotchkis & QA1 Suspension

Offline 70chall440

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #34 on: September 15, 2015 - 11:56:28 AM »
Lots of "ifs" and variables here but IMO, the first thing I would do is make it reliable (running), the make it safe (suspension, brakes, etc), then perhaps a little bit of comfort (stereo, seats, etc), then I would begin to figure out what direction I wanted to head in terms of power verses handling, looks, mods, etc. You have a bit of a fork in the road, you can focus on power and then build the suspension to support that, or you can build the suspension first. Again, it really depends on your concept and interest.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline ToxicWolf

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #35 on: September 15, 2015 - 12:25:38 PM »
Alan, and everybody else

Would you consider it Protouring if you keep the interior looking original and don't modify the rear for really wide tires, but there are serious changes to the drive train and suspension? The difference between Restomod and Protouring has always confused me.  :clueless:

Offline dave73chally

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #36 on: September 15, 2015 - 12:42:52 PM »
My broad take is this:

Restomod - restored and slightly modified with small updates

Pro touring - built to accelerate, brake and handle like a modern day car

G-machine - all out "pro touring" style with the best of the best components, meant to hang at the track with almost anything
73 Challenger
512 / 4spd / Hotchkis & QA1 Suspension

Offline 70chall440

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #37 on: September 15, 2015 - 01:33:24 PM »
My take on it


Restomod - restored and slightly modified with small updates; basically non-original upgrades that do not dramatically change the essence of the original vehicle but do make it better, unique, etc.  Can include a different (modern) drive train or the original but with improvements for performance and/or reliability. Key here is that the vehicle retains a lot of the original design; i.e. "slightly" modified.

Pro touring - built to brake and handle and be reliable like a modern day car (performance level is open to interpretation of the owner). Like restomod, can include a new/modern drive train or improved original type. Key is the vehicle is capable of being driven all day anywhere like a modern vehicle; i.e looks mostly like the original car but performs like a modern car. 

G-machine - all out "pro touring" style with the best of the best components, meant to hang at the track with almost anything; emphasis is on the "G" (as in G force); has to handle like a race car, everything else is secondary to that. Of course power, performance, stopping, etc. are integral to the overall package.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline djw383

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #38 on: September 15, 2015 - 07:41:03 PM »
Another plus, when doing a restomod it is not a sin to powder coat parts in a close color to gain some long term durability. So, if you start with suspension, powder coat everything as you move along.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2015 - 08:31:49 PM by djw383 »

Offline 70chall440

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Re: Cost to Build
« Reply #39 on: September 15, 2015 - 11:45:39 PM »
Very true and applies to all 3 classes/types. Exactly the reason I have stayed away for the most part from restoration; too many rules, self proclaimed experts, haters, etc. For me, I grew up when these cars were new and got into them when they were in some cases 2-3 years old. I seldom saw a stock one, especially any performance model. Therefore I grew up modifying and fixing them. I can appreciate a stock/restored car but to me they are very boring. Don't get me wrong, I prefer a restored car over a badly built car, but I will go straight to the restomods, pro touring and G machines every time. I really enjoy seeing how people did things and how they made their vision come to life.

the thing I like about Pro Touring is that they take things to another level; complete suspension changes, very innovative interiors, etc. They are not constrained by what the car came with and could have came with. Personally I am in the middle of restomod and pro touring, I like innovation but I do like the period correct nuances as they take me back. Again, the titles don't mean anything, you can call your car whatever you like, sure their might be someone who disagrees but unless their name in on the title to the car it doesn't matter. If you are happy with the car, that is all that counts.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)