Author Topic: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body  (Read 2453 times)

Offline rftroy

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1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« on: January 05, 2016 - 01:11:21 AM »
I've begun my 505 Challenger project.  I have a spare 1970 B body shifter, which has the longer shift lever arms.
Has anyone ever used that shifter in an E body to get a short shifter throw?
Any interference issues?
I haven't driven an E body for years, but I don't remember the shifter throw being terribly long, so this could be a solution in search of a problem.

Robert
AAR 4-speed 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner 4-speed 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv 383 4-speed 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv Slant 6 OD4 2.94, 71 B5 blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red;
70 Challenger S/E.  Soon to be 505 6 pack, Aluminum Hemi 4-speed, 3.55, Plum Crazy




Offline 70chall440

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Re: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2016 - 01:45:03 AM »
The e body is vastly shorter. If I had one I would try and trade you as I need one for my Road Runner. When I was younger I tried to cut one down and it is a mess, for the cost of them now (they are repopped and available from Brewers, Year One, etc).
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2016 - 08:47:40 PM »
Yes , I have played with different shifters & levers  to shorten the throw down a lot

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline 1 Wild R/T

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Re: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2016 - 08:57:05 PM »
Some shift levers have two holes to shorten the throw you use the hole closest to the pivot...   Look here... 

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OL-E
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
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Offline rftroy

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Re: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2016 - 10:05:06 PM »
Yes , I have played with different shifters & levers  to shorten the throw down a lot

If you tried a 70 B bpdy, how did it work for you?
Did it have a good feel, or did the throw end up being too short and require too much force?
Somewhere in between?

Bob
AAR 4-speed 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner 4-speed 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv 383 4-speed 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv Slant 6 OD4 2.94, 71 B5 blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red;
70 Challenger S/E.  Soon to be 505 6 pack, Aluminum Hemi 4-speed, 3.55, Plum Crazy

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2016 - 10:29:21 PM »
Seems to work well

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline rftroy

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Re: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2016 - 11:21:25 PM »
Thanks.  I'll give it a try.
It's a very simple job to change shifters, so it's no effort to try it.

Robert
AAR 4-speed 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner 4-speed 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv 383 4-speed 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv Slant 6 OD4 2.94, 71 B5 blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red;
70 Challenger S/E.  Soon to be 505 6 pack, Aluminum Hemi 4-speed, 3.55, Plum Crazy

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: 1970 B body Hurst shifter in E body
« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2016 - 12:07:24 PM »
I have a spare 1970 B body shifter, which has the longer shift lever arms.
Has anyone ever used that shifter in an E body to get a short shifter throw?
Any interference issues?

I used to be able to buy the dual hole plates from the dealer years ago. But now I get stuff at swap meets.

If you have some good drill bits, Your can drill some new holes to convert your arms to have that 2nd hole. I've used a sharp carbide tipped die grinder bit to slowly sneak up on the desired final hole size.  Just make sure that you start with a plate that is at the straight up and down angle when in neutral and facing the shifter. (not 90 degrees to the floor) All plates have different angles cut where they bolt to the side of the shifter forks. If you don't have e-body plates, you want a plate that travels forward and back across an arc and equal distance from neutral in relation to the lower linkage hole in it's corresponding shifter plate. Sometimes flipping plates over or using some from different applications work. The OD ones are cut at a different angle too.
for the shifter mechanism, I've had to cut off the outside shifter leg then weld it spaced out about half an inch. If you look at an E-body shifter, you'll see that that the outside shifter plate is spaced out farther than a b-body shifter.   

LOL, I have a welder, I make stuff work.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0