Author Topic: Quarter Seam  (Read 4553 times)

Offline js29no

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Re: Quarter Seam
« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2016 - 09:52:59 AM »
I think the crack might be from the brace that runs along the back side of the quarter panel brake's loose. in behind the quarter window, spot welded to the quarter panel it get's spot welded ti the wheel house. the weld pop's loose and flexes at that point. looses it's rigidity and cracks. :2cents:  it's been A while since I worked on mine, but that is what I remember seeing. :working: 




Offline 70chall440

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Re: Quarter Seam
« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2016 - 10:45:16 AM »
I asked this same question some time ago and yes, it got a little heated as one of the members was a bit adamant that the seam should be leaded which I do not want to do. Therefore, I have spent some time researching this subject and arrived at the following;

1. if you are merely wanting to fill the area without any additional welding, leading is the best choice (there is a lead free option from Eastwood). There is also All Metal, however it remains to be seen if this will not crack over time (some say it will, others say it wont). I attribute these responses to how well the roof and quarter panel are welded (either factory or elsewhere). Bottom line, it is clear that with at least some factory spot welds as well as some body shop welds, the roof panel can and does flex which will result in about anything other than lead to crack (it might make lead crack as well over time).

2. if you weld the entire seam, it "appear" that you are much freer to use pretty much whatever you want to fill the seam. That seam is a bit deep to just slather bondo in there and leave it, but that might be car dependent. If you are intent to fill this seam with some type of body filler, choose a good quality product. I would use something that builds and doesn't layer so it cracks and falls out.

3. If you weld the entire seam and/or fill the seam gap with sheet metal (essentially bridge the gap between the panels) you can use far less bondo and probably have less issue so long as your filler panels are just below the panel edges so there is some place for the filler to sit AND you do not pour too much heat into the panels and cause yourself even more issues. This is the path I am going because I believe that adding the panels will strengthen this area even more and make the body work easier and cleaner.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline ekW

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Re: Quarter Seam
« Reply #17 on: February 28, 2016 - 09:46:04 PM »
that's  how  mine is done...weld it solid , add filler strip , weld it flush and solid . you have a very strong joint now.. = very minor filler .  many a car has been skimmed and sanded without issues.  the most important thing to remember is to " ALLOW TIME FOR SHRINKAGE " on ____any filler and  ___any primers........... then you can paint it..........
« Last Edit: February 28, 2016 - 09:57:30 PM by ekW »

Offline 70chall440

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Re: Quarter Seam
« Reply #18 on: February 29, 2016 - 01:44:01 PM »
That is exactly what I am doing.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline crash340

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Re: Quarter Seam
« Reply #19 on: February 29, 2016 - 02:29:08 PM »
What is typically the expected time to wait for shrinkage of filler coats before painting?
Greg

73 Cuda
Brisbane, Australia

Offline rhamson

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Re: Quarter Seam
« Reply #20 on: March 02, 2016 - 08:33:22 AM »
I think the crack might be from the brace that runs along the back side of the quarter panel brake's loose. in behind the quarter window, spot welded to the quarter panel it get's spot welded ti the wheel house. the weld pop's loose and flexes at that point. looses it's rigidity and cracks. :2cents:  it's been A while since I worked on mine, but that is what I remember seeing. :working:
:iagree: I welded it on there and to the roof in the joint. Hopefully it will hold. I also leaded the seam to make sure it is solid. I have had two Challengers that cracked in the same exact spot.