Author Topic: Alternator overcharging  (Read 3764 times)

Offline 7071 challenger

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Alternator overcharging
« on: January 10, 2016 - 08:32:44 PM »
Hi everyone...

A friend and I are building a 1970 Challenger with a 6.1 Hemi from a 2013 Ram. We are using a FAST XFI 2.0 computer, but it doesn't have any wires for the alternator. We've been told that there is no voltage regulator integrated in a 2013 Ram alternator. Over the internet, I've read that you can hook up an external voltage regulator and that's what we did. Basically, we ran an ignition wire to one of the terminals on the voltage regulator and to what seems to be a ''field'' terminal of the alternator (same wire). Than, we ran the second regulator wire to what seems to be the second ''field'' wire of the alternator. So, we hook up the alternator like a 1970 Chrysler alternator. There's only 3 wires to hook up on the alternator, the large positive cable (+) and the two ''field'' wires. It seems evident we have something hook up wrong because, we have constant 18-19 volts when the engine is running. We added a ground wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator body, but still have 18-19 volts. Tried another regulator; same problem. Even if we disconnect the voltage regulator, we still have 18-19 volts at the battery. And yes, my test meter is fine. Even the FAST program on the laptop says we have 18-19 volts and battery is getting hot and smells bad. Does anybody know how to wire a 2013 Ram alternator if we don't have the Ram computer? Thanks. Robert




Offline GreenFish

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Re: Alternator overcharging
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2016 - 11:51:51 AM »
I dont have an answer for you directly but could you just switch to a one wire internally regulated alt?
70 cuda, 440, KB pistons, 10.5:1 compression, edlebrock heads,RacerBrown cam, 5-Speed Tremec, Megasquirt EFI

Offline 7071 challenger

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Re: Alternator overcharging
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2016 - 09:19:26 PM »
Maybe that's we will have to do. We tried that alternator first because it came with the engine. We contact a local shop and the guy said that actually, only one wire is a field wire and it has to be connected the the output of the voltage regulator. In other words, the voltage regulator would have to be energized by the ignition and the other wire (output) goes to the alternator to the field terminal. The other alternator wire (according to the guy at the local shop) is a signal that goes to the computor if the alternator is not charging to lit the warning light. I'm going to my friend's place saturday, we will do more testing.  Thanks!


Offline GreenFish

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Re: Alternator overcharging
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2016 - 02:37:29 PM »
my understanding is that if you switch to a one wire, internally regulated alt, the idiot light wont work on the dash. Depending on how you feel about it, isnt a big deal.
70 cuda, 440, KB pistons, 10.5:1 compression, edlebrock heads,RacerBrown cam, 5-Speed Tremec, Megasquirt EFI

Offline soundcontrol

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Re: Alternator overcharging
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2016 - 02:47:44 PM »
I read a thread about another 6.1 thats overcharging here:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?104603-High-Voltage-Hemi


But thats with the stock computer, maybe it is of some help anyways.
/ Ken
Restoration thread: http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=102525.0
topic=108917.new#new

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Alternator overcharging
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2016 - 11:27:53 AM »
Almost every new alternator has a "sense" wire. Most new alternators don't use a voltage regulator. I don't know how your 6.1 alternator was designed, so this is just a guess.

If you hook it to the battery, it will not see the voltage drop going through the wiring to the bulkhead. If you have good wiring all the way to the ignition switch, then hook it up there.

This is how a lot of my ND style alternators are plugged in. You need to get a pin-out of YOUR alternator and make sure that you have all of the pins wired correctly.

Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline TelisSE440

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Re: Alternator overcharging
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2016 - 05:39:00 PM »
Nice connection you did there  :)

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Alternator overcharging
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2016 - 07:52:25 AM »
I know you're just hoping that I can answer your question. This is what pops up in my head:   If you can't find a manual showing how your alternator pin out should be, go to an auto parts store where they test alternators. I've watched them test my different alternators and they all have the same sets of wires to hook up to the fields, sense wire, battery terminal.  They have let me draw diagrams from their test manual for other different things like GM 4,7 and 8 pin ignition modules. It's all in that hookup page that they go to when you give them the make model and year alternator to test.

I think every alternator with a "sense" terminal is internally regulated but that regulator needs to get a good input to know what to put out. If you hook it up at a point far from the battery, the alternator is trying to get you 13volts there, even though the voltmeter at the battery is showing 15-16 volts. See why you shouldn't run 1-wire alternators?
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0